Few phrases on a formal invitation cause more sartorial anxiety than “Black Tie Optional.”

This dress code attempts to offer freedom but often delivers confusion. For the modern gentleman, decoding this request is essential.

At its heart, Black Tie Optional is an evening dress code that presents a choice: honor the host’s formality by wearing a tuxedo (the preferred choice) or opt for a rigorously selected dark suit (the acceptable alternative).

It is the most generous of all formal dress codes, acting as a courtesy from the host who acknowledges that not every man owns a tuxedo. In fact, relatively few do, seeing as dinner jackets can be quite expensive, especially if you go the made-to-measure or bespoke route.

The key to succeeding is understanding that “optional” is not an invitation to dress casually. The danger lies in the lack of commitment—aiming for the middle ground leaves you looking awkwardly underdressed.

This guide is built to ensure you execute either your tuxedo or your formal dark suit with confidence and authority.

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What Does Black Tie Optional Mean?

Black tie-optional refers to a dress code in which a tuxedo/dinner jacket (black tie) is requested, but guests have the option to wear a dark business suit if they so choose. They take place in the evening, just as standard black tie events do.

We call this the most generous of the dress codes because it’s a judgment-free acknowledgement that not all men own or can afford actual semi-formal wear.

Tuxedos aren’t necessarily expensive, but they’re always more expensive than comparable suits due to the additional material needed for the facings.

Which Types of Events Are Black-Tie Optional?

Any event that’s otherwise black tie can become black tie-optional if the host decides to make it so. These could include weddings, evening celebrations for religious rites of passage such as communions and bar mitzvahs, and even certain galas.

Men In Tuxedos Smoking Cigars

Let’s break down the various garments that you can wear at a black tie optional event by looking at your two options:

Option A: The Tuxedo [The Preferred Choice]

Ideally, we’d opt for a tuxedo. By choosing this route, you honor the host’s request and will be perfectly dressed. We highly recommend investing in a tuxedo when the opportunity arises, as you never know when you’ll need it until it’s too late!

Tuxedo Jacket

A traditional black tuxedo is the definitive choice. However, modern sartorial standards permit specific sophisticated alternatives:

  • Midnight Blue: This tone is a very traditional alternative to black and often appears richer and deeper under evening lights.
  • Velvet Dinner Jacket: A velvet smoking jacket in black, midnight blue, burgundy, or bottle green may be substituted for a traditional tuxedo jacket, especially for festive occasions in cooler months.

Black Tie Optional Shirt [Tuxedo]

Should you wish to wear a tuxedo, we’re particularly fond of the evening shirts made by Eton. These are excellent for black tie optional as they’re not overly formal.

Instead of shirt studs, they have a covered placket, and they feature a turndown collar. French cuffs are the ideal choice.

Black Tie Optional Shoes [Tuxedo]

black patent leather tux shoes

Black Patent Leather Loafers

If you’re wearing a tuxedo, you must opt for shoes for that particular occasion, such as patent leather oxfords or slippers. The high shine of patent leather is essential to match the formality of the satin lapels of the jacket.

For specific options when it comes to tuxedo shoes, check out our detailed guide for the best black tie shoes to buy online.

Black Tie Optional Tie [Tuxedo]

If wearing a tuxedo, a black bow tie is required, with a self-tie being ideal.

Featured Solution: Suitsupply Black Tie Package

For men looking for a comprehensive, high-quality, ready-to-wear solution, Suitsupply offers a dedicated Black Tie Package designed to deliver a complete ensemble without piecing it together.

The Package ($999): This package provides all the essential components for a full black tie look :

  1. Tuxedo: A choice of black or navy tuxedo (jacket + pants).
  2. Shirt: An Egyptian cotton tuxedo shirt (plain hidden placket, piqué bib, or pleated bib).
  3. Shoes: Classic patent leather Oxford lace-ups or black velvet slip-ons.
  4. Accessories: Includes a silk bow tie, a choice of cufflinks, and suspenders.

The package is available for $999 and can be upgraded to include a waistcoat for $100 more ($1099 total).

Rafael Wearing SuitSupply Tuxedo

Rafael Wearing SuitSupply Tux Package

Suitsupply is renowned for its quick turnaround and in-store alterations, which help achieve a perfect fit, making this an excellent choice for gentlemen seeking a quick investment in their formal wardrobe.

Option B: The Dark Suit [The Acceptable Alternative]

We realize that not everyone would opt for a tuxedo. And given the dress code’s name, you don’t have to do so.

If you choose this path, you must ensure your suit is dark and accessorized conservatively to compete with the tuxedos in the room.

Black-Tie-Optional

Black Tie Optional Suit

If wearing a suit, it must be dark.

  • Acceptable Colors: This is one of the rare occasions in which it’s acceptable to wear a black suit. Dark charcoal and deep navy are also perfectly acceptable options.
  • The Grey Suit Question: While dark charcoal is permitted, light-colored suits (such as light grey or khaki) are strictly forbidden, as they are considered too casual for an evening event.

If you don’t have anything in your wardrobe that’s appropriate, we can recommend a number of excellent suit brands:

  • Custom Suits: If time is on your side and you’re planning ahead, we’re very fond of custom suitmakers like Indochino. With these services, you can submit your measurements online, and the suits are then made and shipped to your home. For more information on this, head to our guide to the best custom suits to buy online, where we detail price point, quality, and overall value for the various options.
  • Ready-to-Wear: If you’re in a hurry, Suitsupply has yet to let anyone down. They offer excellent quality for the price that you pay, and your garments will arrive very quickly.

Black Tie Optional Shirt [Suit]

Tuxedo shirt with french cuffs

Tux Shirts with French Cuffs

Whatever you choose, your shirt should be white.

While barrel cuffs are fine on this occasion, French (Double) cuffs are the ideal choice. In a pinch, a light blue shirt will work too, but we’d avoid it if at all possible.

If you want to pick up a quality shirt for the occasion, head to our guide to the best shirt brands on the market.

Black Tie Optional Shoes [Suit]

If you’re wearing a suit, we suggest classic cap toe Oxfords in black calfskin leather, polished to a high shine. This is the most formal shoe you can wear with a suit. Do not wear patent leather shoes, which are reserved for tuxedos.

Beckett Simonon is one of our top choices when it comes to traditional oxfords. For a modern dress shoe with memory foam insole, check out Amberjack’s black loafers.

Black Tie Optional Tie

When choosing something for black tie optional, opt for an understated tie.

  • Recommendation: A black, navy, deep plum, or deep burgundy necktie will work wonderfully. Select a solid color as opposed to one with a pattern.

Crucial Rule: If you are wearing a suit, do not wear a black bow tie. A black bow tie is reserved for the tuxedo and will make your suit look like an awkward imitation of black-tie attire.

What Accessories To Wear For Black Tie Optional

In keeping with black tie guidelines, colorful accessories are best reduced to a minimum.

For instance, novelty braces and wild socks will seem somewhat out of place. Nevertheless, feel free to throw on a boutonnière for some added flair!

The beauty of this is that if your capsule wardrobe is fleshed out, you will already have everything you need to attend a black tie-optional affair. Click the preceding link if you’re unsure of what a capsule wardrobe is (and if you don’t know, you’ll find a ton of value in it!).

What Not To Wear To A Black Tie Optional Event

Sure, there are options. It’s in the title of the dress code, isn’t it?

Man In Khaki Suit

Full khaki suit is unsuitable for a black tie optional event

Of course there are, but not all of them are available to you on this occasion. Here are some basic things to avoid:

  • Light-colored suits: Black tie-optional events take place in the evening, and a suit in light grey or khaki (pictured above) simply won’t cut it.
  • Odd jackets & trousers: If you’re thinking about wearing khakis and a blazer to a black tie-optional gathering, think again. Even the smartest “odd” combinations are too casual for an affair with tuxedos.
  • An outfit without a tie: You need to wear a tie. It doesn’t matter if it’s a bow tie or a necktie, but you need to wear one. And you need to tie it yourself.
  • Crazy socks: You may wear crazy socks to a casual office, the movies, a date, a crazy sock convention, or similar situations. For black tie-optional events, keep your socks the same color as your trousers.

On a related note, we recently updated our dress socks guide with the best brands currently on the market. If your sock wardrobe needs refreshing, it’s a great place to start!

What Next?

For a man who doesn’t own a tuxedo and wisely refuses to rent one, black tie-optional events are his best friend. You can minimize expense by utilizing your existing wardrobe and still look like a million bucks when you’re out on the town amongst the tuxedo-wearing masses.

However, we believe it’s worth investing in a tuxedo when the opportunity arises. After all, you’ll never know when you’ll need it until it’s too late!

For more information on other dress codes, see our guide to dress codes. Otherwise, we have a host of other resources at your disposal:

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About The Author – Paul Anthony

Paul Anthony Sidebar PicPaul is a the founder and creative director of Bespoke Unit. His interests range from: suits, shoes, watches, sport, and travel. See his full profile here, and read latest articles.

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