At Bespoke Unit, we believe that the fit of a suit is far more important than the quality of the materials and style. Therefore, this guide will quickly cover the most important points into make sure that you wear a suit that fits:
If you need a super quick reference for proper suit fit, keep reading. However, if you’re looking for more in-depth information on other elements of suits, we offer deeper dives on jackets, trousers, waistcoats, and shirts.
15-Minute Suit Fitting Guide
Being one of the most complex and arguably important items in a man’s wardrobe, a suit requires knowledge to pull off properly. With this 15-minute guide to the essential elements of a suit, you’ll learn how they should fit.
You can use the links above to jump ahead to each section. However, remember that we offered detailed guides on each garment so you can learn about those hidden details too:
How A Jacket Should Fit
- Shoulders: No narrower and only barely wider than your own. Too wide makes your head look small, too narrow makes your head look big.
- Collar: Sits flush against your shirt collar and allows 1/2″-3/4″ of shirt collar to be visible above that of the jacket.
- Shoulder blades: Back of jacket lays as smoothly as possible across the shoulder blades. No horizontal lines, which indicate that the jacket is too tight. No billowing material, which indicates that the jacket is too big.
- Button stance: Top button of a two-button jacket (or middle button of a three-button) should hit about 1.5″-2″ above your navel.
- Vents: They stay closed. Vents that open when the jacket is buttoned means it’s too tight.
- Jacket length: Hits at the second knuckle of the thumb and just barely covers your rear end. Depending on your height and arm length, some permutation of these two concepts will give you your proper jacket length.
- Sleeve length: Allows 1/4″-1/2″ of shirt sleeve (linen) to show.
- Body: Should have as much of an hourglass shape as possible while not pulling at the front buttons. Chest lays flat against your own, and lapels lay smoothly without buckling.
How Should Dress Pants Fit?
- Waist: Snug but not tight, should be able to be worn without a belt. If it bunches with a belt it’s too big. If you have difficulty buttoning it, it’s too small.
- Seat: Lays smoothly across your rear end with minimal ripples. Horizontal lines mean it’s too small, excess material means it’s too big.
- Rise: Refers to the distance between top of the waistband and the fork in the crotch and helps determine where the pants will sit on your body. Traditional men’s trousers sit at the natural waist (near the navel) and thus have a longer rise. Make sure you pull your suit trousers up as far as your anatomy will allow so you can get a feel for their true rise.
- Length: The terms inseam or inside leg are generally used, or the distance from the fork in the crotch to the hem. Trousers can be shortened and lengthened very easily so long as there’s enough material to do so.
- Break: The amount of trouser material that lays on your shoe. Referred to in terms of large, medium, slight, or no break. We suggest a slight break.
- Taper: Trouser legs should get narrower as they get closer to your ankle, within reason. No bell bottoms, and no skinny pants.
How Should A Waistcoat / Vest Fit?
- Body: Should lay smoothly against your own while still looking slim. There should be no pulling at the buttons and little stress around the back. If there’s an adjuster in the back, it should mostly be for show, not to achieve a certain fit.
- Length: Whether single- or double-breasted, a waistcoat should always cover the waistband of your suit trousers. Some casual waistcoats are cut a bit shorter, but that won’t work for a true three-piece suit. Single-breasted waistcoats should finish about an inch below your trouser waistband, while double-breasted ones should finish just at the bottom of your trouser waistband.
How Should Dress Shirts Fit?
- Collar: Should be snug enough to not look sloppy but still allow you to get a finger or two in between the collar and your neck.
- Shoulders: Should sync up with your own shoulders even more closely than those of a suit jacket. The shoulder seams should sit right at your own, being neither too close to your neck nor drop-shoulder.
- Body shape: Should be slim against the torso while tapered at the natural waist. Many well-made shirts bell back out around the bottom to accommodate the wearer’s hips.
- Length: Should be long enough to stay tucked into your trousers with no issue. Usually this means that it hits at the fork in the trouser crotch. Shirts you can wear untucked can end about halfway down your fly.
- Sleeves: Shirtsleeves end at the break of the wrist and no further.
- Cuffs: Cuffs should be small enough to leave minimal space around the wrist but large enough to not pull when buttoned. French cuffs should be in the shape of a horseshoe, more or less. Custom shirts will be able to accommodate a watch on one wrist.
Tying It All Together
Whether your suit is off-the-rack or made-to-measure, you’ll likely have to perform some alterations to make sure that your suit fits at all times.
Even if your suit initially fitted perfectly, it’s possibly to lose or gain weight at any time. Therefore, you may want to consider retouching your suit for an improved fit.
Getting a perfect fit for all these garments is always easier when you already know of a good tailor in your area. In some places, there are few options and occasionally a town will only have one if any at all.
If possible, try to find a good one rather than simply the nearest. The extra effort is well worth it and a good relationship with a tailor can truly be beneficial for both you and your appearance.
For more information on suits in general, see our suit home page.
What Next?
Now that you have read our guide to how a suit should fit, consider perusing some of our related content:
Ultimate Suit Fit Guide Pages
Information is on point; enjoyed reading your article. I’m a matured gentleman and I love the fashion world and dressing stylish at 72 I’m still a big fan of Italian slim cut suits especially six on two DB’s. The best to you and to the subscribers of bespokeunit e news letter.
Hi Irv!
Thanks for your kind words! Your personal style sounds very much on point indeed!
Best,
CP
Hello, I have purchased some trousers for a wedding in going to and I will also be wearing braces, I am under the impression that they fit well, but there are a few items in the lower region that I feel should perhaps be concealed a little more. Is there anything I can do.
Regards shane
Hi Shane,
If the items to which you’re referring are what I think, is this because the trousers are too tight or riding too high? Sometimes braces can pull trousers up a little too much, which causes things to go where they shouldn’t. Have you tried readjusting them?
Best,
CP
How do I adjust the jacket sleeves so only a little of my shirt is showing when I purchase a 50 long suit? Thank you
Hi Leon,
The best bet is to take it to a tailor or someone that offers adjustment services. It’s a relatively easy job and will yield the best results.
Best,
CP
I lost weight but have a few blazers that are now a little loose but not much. They are 46 and I am now at 42-44. I know is against the rules but, is it ok to still wear them? I think investing on a tailor is pointless and I rather buy new stuff. But I like them a lot and are still new since I have worn them only a few times. I know first world problems
Hi Leonardo,
I understand as I’ve been through a similar weight loss! I haven’t altered or changed my wardrobe as I’m waiting until I get to a weight where I’m satisfied.
As long as the jackets don’t look overly baggy, it’s probably fine. If they start to droop over the chest and shoulders rather than drape, it might look somewhat strange. However, if it’s just temporary and you’re fine with it, it’s no big deal.
All the best,
CP
I’m going through the same exact thing 46 to 44/42. I have asked many questions and spoke to my tailor and the SHOULDERS are the important measurement. If your shoulders are still wide(like a body builder), then the jacket can be taken in. As for me, I had to have the tailor “fold” the shoulders which shortened them, the sleeves were removed, this also shortened the jacket which I wanted done anyway. The bill was $250 per jacket(my problem is I have to have 8 done for a total of $1800. They are canvassed jackets so as long as they came out good, I’m happy or I would have to buy 8 new suits. I also say one of the most important people in my life are Alberto and Maria(my tailors). They have also made 4 bespoke suits for me.