This guide of our dress code series will discuss white tie attire including the types of events where white tie is worn as well as the individual components of white tie dress and the common pitfalls.
Hopefully, this will provide you with a valuable resource by helping you learn how to dress according to the white tie dress code.
Use the menu below to jump ahead:
- What Is White Tie Dress?
- White Tie Dress Code Breakdown
- Bow Tie
- The White Tie Shirt
- White Tie Shoes
- Accessories
- Types Of White Tie Events
- White Tie Mistakes
Alternatively, scroll down to keep reading.
How To Dress For White Tie Events
Common Dress Codes
Rarer Dress Codes
What Is White Tie?
Of all the dress codes in the Western world, white tie is the most formal for civilians. It is widely considered to be the epitome of sartorial elegance, essentially functioning as the most luxurious suit of armor that a gentleman can don. The tails and high-waisted trousers add height, and the presentation is one of masculine strength and elegance.
Other names for white tie include full dress, tails, evening suit, and cravate blanche.
Before the Second World War, it was standard evening dress for (wealthy) men. Currently, it’s quite rare to see men in white tie. Barely anyone sells full dress clothes off the rack, and many of the now-popular made-to-measure companies don’t even offer them as an option due to their rarity. Available as custom or bespoke pieces, tailcoats and the garments that are worn with them are quite expensive.
In fact, many invitations to modern events will state “white or black tie” in a real-world acknowledgement of the difficulty many men have acquiring these clothes.
What Does Full Dress Look Like?
There is truly nothing quite like the white tie outfit. Should you be invited to such an event, here’s what you’ll need to wear:
White Tie Coat
4- or 6-button black barathea wool tailcoat with satin-faced peak lapels. The tails hit at the back of the knee and the sleeves can be a touch shorter than you may be accustomed to. You really want to show some cuff in a tailcoat.
White Tie Trousers
Black barathea wool with double satin braiding on outseams. The trousers are cut higher than normal so as to accommodate the high-worn vest (pictured further down the page).
White Tie Waistcoat
Low-cut single-breasted in white piqué cotton with three buttons. There is a tiny bit of variation allowed in waistcoat details, such as the roundedness or sharpness of the lapels’ edges.
Tie
White piqué cotton self-tie bow tie.
White Tie Shirt
White cotton, single cuff wing collar with piqué bib and a tab to fasten to trousers. The tab keeps the shirt straight against the body while seated; without it, the bib would billow out in an unsightly way.
White Tie Shoes
Black patent leather oxfords or opera pumps. For a full guide to shoe styles, see our Ultimate Shoe Style Guide.
Accessories
Shirt studs, white dress scarf, white dress gloves, white pocket square, black top hat, and, of course, cufflinks. The top hat is optional and shouldn’t be worn indoors.
What Kinds Of Events Require White Tie?
White tie tends to run in high society, amongst elites of state and the very wealthy. White tie events are only in the evening and are typically:
- State dinners
- Galas
- Debutante balls
- Formal evening weddings (often in the American South, involving socialites)
- Royal ceremonies
White tie attire should not be worn to events that start before 6pm. Such events would require you to wear morning dress.
Pitfalls Of White Tie
The beauty of white tie is that you have basically zero wiggle room. If you simply follow the rules, you will look great.
Problematically, we sometimes have issues following the rules. There are pitfalls that one encounters with any dress code: jacket sleeves too long, trousers sitting too low, and the like. White tie has one specific issue that’s incredibly common: the waistcoat being visible below the jacket’s body.
The white piqué waistcoat worn for full dress must not hang lower than the body of the jacket. This is a hugely common occurrence, and even former American President George W. Bush has been guilty of this violation, as has 2012 presidential candidate Mitt Romney.
We use the admittedly strong term “violation” because we’re not talking about your everyday suit here. We’re talking about the most special garments that a man can wear. To see something so unsightly on what should be such an elegant outfit greatly amplifies the unsightliness.
If you’re going to spend good money on formalwear, it should fit correctly.
In Conclusion
If you ever have the opportunity to take part in a white tie event, relish it. It’s rare to have occasion to dress so formally, and there’s a chance you will never look better in your life. Enjoy it!
Should you have questions about other common dress codes for men, we cordially invite you to take a look at our comprehensive Dress Codes Guide.
What Next?
Now that you have read our primer on dress codes, consider reading some of our related content:
- How To Wear A Suit For A Job Interview
- What Is Black Tie Optional?
- What To Wear At Weddings?
- Best Online Made-to-Measure Suits
- Suit Homepage
"An obscure dress code. I've been invited to my first white tie event and didn't want to get it wrong. Thanks for this helpful guide!"Rating: 5.0 ★★★★★
About The Author – Paul Anthony
Paul is a the founder and creative director of Bespoke Unit. His interests range from: suits, shoes, watches, sport, and travel. See his full profile here, and read latest articles.
Have had a full dress suit made, looking for BUTTONS. Where can I order suitable buttons. Can these be fabric covered. I favor uncovered, such as those on Oxford suits.
Please advise.
Benson & Clegg of London have a wonderful selection of buttons.
You can buy directly from their site.
Cheers,
– Paul
Where can I find the links for all of theses dress items? Can you post them please?
Hi George,
As you may have noticed, there is a wide variety of items on the list. Some of them are harder to find than others these days and are dependant on where you live. Off-the-rack tailcoats and trousers are rare and you may need to approach a tailor for this. However, there are some brands who continue to make them for formal events and musicians.
As for the accessories, there are a number of online retailers that can help regarding this. One of my favourites is Darcy Clothing who specialise in traditional clothing and accessories. You’ll be able to get the waistcoat from them as well as bibbed shirts as stiff collars for an authentic style.
Good hunting!
Best,
CP
I have everything except the trousers with the twin grosgrain stripes and front inside button for the shirt tab. Everyone wants to sell me the tux trousers, saying they are the same trousers to wear with the tail coat.
Of course they not only do not have the dual stripes, but they are cut lower in the front and do not have the button for the shirt tab.
EuGene Smith
Clinton, AR
Absolutely, EuGene. there is a fundamental difference between tuxedo and white tie trousers and it’s important to make that distinction. I hope that you’ll find a pair soon!
Best,
CP
Can you say something about the different types of tails? This seems to be saying “this is all there is”, which is clearly not historically the case.
For instance, this has tails to close together as to resemble a morning coat in styling in the back, but I own a 105-year-old tailcoat with very distinctive tails.
I also own a second vintage tailcoat, about 90 years old, which does not have peaks. The lapel is smooth. That one also has the (smaller) buttons on only the “would be functional if that were a thing” side rather than the symmetrical diagonal larger three.
Hi Dodger,
We’re slowly going through all our suit content and updating it to include more detailed information. I’ll keep this in mind when the team gets to it!
Best,
CP
BTW, you have the wrong top navigation on this page.
Not sure what you mean?
White tie and morning coat dress were developed overseas and that is more or less where they belong. The United States wasn’t built on a foundation of royalty and strict formal hierarchies and ceremonies; we are all created equal here. As such, we Americans should concentrate our dress codes on more egalitarian forms of dress and consider eliminating these strictly formal dress codes, as much as possible.
I see where you’re coming from but if people want to dress in white tie, surely it would be egalitarian to let them?
My pique white tie single-cuffed shirt has convertible cuffs. Should I remove the cuff buttons before using cufflinks?
Hey there Josef,
If your shirt has convertible cuffs, you should be able to ‘hide’ the buttons as opposed to removing them but yes, the idea is for only the cufflinks to show if you’re wearing them.
Rafael
No cap toes. Tie should be to size, not adjustable. Single cuffs. Detachable high collar, different collar studs for front and back. Optional but helpful is thin loop on back of shirt to keep bow tie from creeping up your collar.
Two questions:
1) gloves: when do I wear them and when may I take them off?
2) top hat: same questions, tho clearly one removes the top hat upon entering … but the affair is next week – winter in NYC – and I’ll have a coat on as well as the hat ( after I exit the cab ). but then I will most likely be just inside at a coat room and so I’ll take off my outer coat …and the top hat as well? Then no one except the coat check person will see my elegant top hat. Or do I wear or carry my top hat to my table?
Hi there Frederick,
I apologize for the delayed reply to your comment. Regarding gloves, you should remove & pocket them when drinks are served. Regarding the top hat, I do recommend checking it along with your coat. Indeed, it is unfortunate that the cold weather will not give you much time in the spotlight with it, but it’s likely to become cumbersome once you’re are your table.
Regards,
Rafael