Linen is a suit fabric that immediately springs to mind when summer approaches. Although it’s often associated with wrinkles and creases, it’s renowned for its lightweight and breathable structure.

Easily worn as a suit or in various odd pieces, linen is the quintessential hot weather fabric, and it also happens to be one of the oldest fabric types in existence. This page will deal with linen specifically. Use the following links to jump ahead or keep scrolling to read it all:

Indochino Wide Banner V3

Indochino Wide Banner V3

Best Linen Suits That You Can Buy Online

At the end of this guide, you will discover the best linen suits that you can buy online. Each one is offered by our preferred online made-to-measure  suit makers. Moreover, they are featured in no particular order of preference.

  1. Black Lapel Egyptian Blue Custom Suit
  2. Black Lapel Khaki Linen Blend Custom Suit
  3. Indochino Gray Check Linen Blend Suit
  4. Indochino Washed Indigo Plaid Linen Suit
  5. Hockerty Beige Double Breasted Linen Suit

You can use the menu above to jump ahead directly to the best suits or scroll down first and learn more about the fabric.

Indochino Link Block

See All Of Our Suit Guides

Read Now

What Is Linen?

tan linen fabric

Linen is a fabric made from the fibers of the flax plant. It’s used in many applications such as bags, aprons, towels, napkins, and tablecloths, but it’s prized for its properties as it relates to clothing.

Indeed, linen keeps you relatively cool and fresh. Furthermore, it’s also rightfully known for being prone to wrinkling and as a casual fabric.

In menswear, the term “linen” is traditionally used to describe the visible parts of a dress shirt, as this used to be the most common material used for shirts before the invention of the cotton gin.

One would say, for example, that it’s appropriate to show 1/4″-1/2″ of linen from your sleeve when wearing a suit jacket.

The fabric is laborious and time-consuming to manufacture, and linen garments tend to be more expensive than their in-class cotton counterparts.

Linen’s Menswear History & How It’s Made

Without any doubt, linen is the oldest fabric that’s still in use today. Dyed flax fibers were discovered in a cave in Georgia (the country, not the U.S. state) approximately thirty-six thousand years ago.

Ancient Egyptians used linen for burial shrouds and mummification. It was also worn by the living, in white, due to Egypt’s extreme heat.

Ireland has a unique story as it relates to linen. Though flax plants have grown in Ireland for years and years, Irish Linen has been manufactured from flax fibers that have been imported almost exclusively from France.

Therefore, the term “Irish Linen” refers not to the country of the fabric’s origin, but rather where the fabric was woven or knitted. Interestingly, “Irish Linen” is capitalized as it’s a brand name.

Nowadays, the lion’s share of linen comes from northern France, Belgium, and the Netherlands. Moreover, various garments made of linen are available seasonally through most retailers, and it’s quite common to see in warm climates year-round.

Benefits & Drawbacks Of Linen For Men’s Suits

Any given fabric will have its unique properties that give it an edge or disadvantage over others, and linen is no different. Below are some of the main strengths and weaknesses of linen:

Benefits Of Linen

Coolness

There’s a reason we wear linen when it’s hot outside: it keeps you cool and is highly absorbent. In sweltering heat, linen clothes are your best friends.

One common misconception about linen’s coolness is that it’s lightweight. While there are indeed lightweight linen fabrics, lots of linen cloth tends to be on the heavier side, often 10-11 ounces per running yard. For comparison, a wool in this weight would be for a suit worn in the fall and into the winter.

This additional weight helps linen to drape and tailor well, but it doesn’t sacrifice any breathability or wicking properties that linen otherwise has.

Casual Yet Elegant Style

Even though they’re suits, linen clothes are far from dressy in most scenarios. If you’re looking for a summer style that exudes a casual vibe, donning a linen suit is undoubtedly the best way to achieve that. That it has a high natural lustre is helpful in that regard.

Men who appreciate Italian style are often big fans of linen, as it’s more relaxed than British-style tailored clothes tend to be. A well-tailored linen suit like those listed below can even be particularly stylish and conform nicely to business professional attire.

Strength

Linen is an extremely strong fiber, and is unlike other fibers insofar as it’s stronger wet than it is dry. The fibers don’t stretch and are resistant to damage from abrasion. It’s also resistant to beetles and moths.

Drawbacks Of Linen

Fiber Elasticity

Though the fabric is strong, linen lacks elasticity and doesn’t spring back easily after it’s been creased. This explains why it wrinkles so easily, but more on that below.

Also, it’s best to avoid creasing linen, so if you prefer a sharp crease in your trousers, save it for wool. Repeated creasing can break linen fibers, and this wear is visible in collars, hems, and other areas that get creased or ironed during laundering.

Wrinkle Prone

If there was one thing you knew about linen before you started reading this page, it was probably the fact that it wrinkles easily. To be clear, this is a natural occurrence and is beloved by linen enthusiasts, but if you’re a stickler for looking neat and pressed, linen might not be the fabric for you.

What Is The Difference Between Cotton & Linen?

Though cotton and linen are both plant-based materials (unlike wool, which comes from an animal), they have different properties. Here are some similarities and differences:

Similarities Of Linen & Cotton

  • As it relates to tailored clothing, both are worn in warm weather
  • Both fabrics are made from plant-based fibers
  • Each have a more casual appearance than wool
  • Both have a tendency to wrinkle

Differences Between Linen & Cotton

  • Linen is more difficult to manufacture than cotton and is thus more expensive
  • Cotton has difficulty absorbing moisture without becoming soaked through, while linen is very absorbent without becoming saturated
  • Cotton tends to be smooth, whereas linen has “slubs,” or small, randomly occurring knots. These slubs are part of the overall aesthetic appeal of linen, but it’s worth noting that the finest (read: most expensive) linens are free of slubs.

Linen Cotton Blends

It’s quite common to see linen-cotton blends for off-the-rack garments like sweaters. As linen is an expensive fabric, adding cotton to the fabrication will bring the production cost (and thus retail price) down without sacrificing the warm weather benefits of either material.

Furthermore, the majority of linen suits on the market today are usually composed of linen blends. For instance, more affordable linen suits will feature a proportion of wool. Alternatively, premium suits like Black Lapel’s Savoy Line below may be composed of linen and silk.

Although they may will still wrinkle, blended linen garments will also tend to lay smoother for longer. In fact, they tend to combine the benefits of each fabric quite well.

How To Wear A Linen Suit

A linen suit is a classic menswear item that makes sense for any man who lives wear the temperatures creep up every once in a while. Below, we offer some guidance in terms of clasisc colors, what to pair with linen suits, and other garments often found in linen fabrications.

Classic Fabric Patterns & Colors

Flax plants naturally occur in these colors: ivory, ecru (a sort of off-white that’s beautiful for dress shirts), tan, and grey. White linen does indeed exist, but the only way to achieve this is to bleach flax fibers heavily.

Linen takes to dye perfectly well, and you don’t have to limit yourself to a light-colored or neutral linen suit. For those of us who want or need to wear linen suits in the evening, they’re made in navy, black, and grey too.

Made-to-measure, custom, and bespoke tailors will often have linen fabric books with every color under the sun. As for patterns, linen fabrics are typically found in solids, stripes, and checks.

As An Odd Jacket

This is a particularly popular way of wearing linen. Not only will you enjoy the benefits of linen to keep you cool but you may also reduce the visible creases around the trousers.

Although a more casual style, it’s perfectly wearable in most office environments when it gets warmer.

Shirt

As it relates to linen suits, you should generally not wear a linen shirt with them. The look gets pyjama-y very quickly, and you’re better off wearing cotton for a little variation.

Linen shirts à la carte, however, are quite handsome and comfortable, especially when paired with casual cotton trousers. At that point it’s just a matter of color coordination, and if you need some help with that, our color guide is a great resource.

Tie & Pocket Square

When wearing a linen suit, your tie and will look best if it’s silk. You can certainly get away with a linen tie (there are some available on the market, for sure), but the fabric variation will add visual interest and avoid the aforementioned pyjama scenario.

As it happens, linen is one of the most popular fabrics for pocket squares, alongside cotton and silk. Because it doesn’t cover very much real estate, pairing a linen hanky with a linen jacket is perfectly acceptable.

Shoes

Because linen has an air of casualness about it, semi-casual shoes like penny loafers, tassel loafers, and brogues in light colors like tan and white tend to pair well with linen suits. Smooth calfskin and light suede work well.

As for color, your best bet, as always, is to look to the trouser as a starting point for coordination. If you need some assistance with this, our shoe and trouser coordination guide is rather extensive and will help you pair any shoe color with any pant color.

When To Wear Linen

If you live in a temperate climate, you can wear linen in the summertime. If you’re fortunate enough to live in the Mediterranean, Caribbean, or other such paradise where the whether is warm year-round, you can wear linen any time you like.

Below are some of the most popular scenarios in which to wear linen clothes.

Summer & Beach Weddings

No matter if you’re a groom, groomsman, guest, or father of the bride or groom, a linen suit is a can’t-miss option for a summer wedding or a wedding on the beach.

Depending on the formality (or lack thereof) of the wedding, you can opt to wear a full suit, linen trousers and a shirt, rolled up linen pants and a waistcoat with no shoes, or any other permutation of linen garments.

If you need help planning what you’re going to wear to your wedding or figuring out what you’ll wear to a wedding to which you’ve been invited, our wedding guide will help you.

Garden Parties

A garden party typically calls for cocktail attire (see our cocktail attire guide for more), so if this is summertime, a dark-colored linen suit is a great choice. A lighter color may be worn if the party takes place during the day.

To The Office

If your office allows it, you can wear a linen suit, trousers, or odd jacket to work. A business casual dress code will take no issue with this, but if your dress code is business professional, then you’ll want to check before wearing linen.

With that said, a dark navy or grey suit in linen is still a suit, and so long as you aren’t a trial attorney or in some kind of customer- or board member-facing capacity, you should be fine.

Best Linen Suits To Buy Online

As mentioned above, we’ve sampled a selection of our favourite made-to-measure linen suits to buy online. Again, they are listed in no particular order of preference but they each provide an insight into the fabric’s unique properties:

  1. Black Lapel Egyptian Blue Custom Suit
  2. Black Lapel Khaki Linen Blend Custom Suit
  3. Indochino Gray Check Linen Blend Suit
  4. Indochino Washed Indigo Plaid Linen Suit
  5. Hockerty Beige Double Breasted Linen Suit

You can use the menu above to jump ahead or scroll down to discover them all.

1. Black Lapel Egyptian Blue Custom Suit

Black Lapel Khaki Linen Custom Suit
  • Material: 75% Wool, 25% Linen
  • Yarn Fineness: Not Listed
  • Fabric Weight: Not Listed
  • Lining: 100% Bemberg
  • Buttons: Brown Bull Horn
  • Price: $449* [Shop Now]

* With “FTOBESPOKEUNIT” $50 Discount Code

Shop Now

Although majoritively composed of wool, this classic khaki suit features 25% linen. The advantage of such a combination means that the likeliness of creasing is greatly reduced while still benefiting from the linen’s coolness.

2. Black Lapel Khaki Linen Blend Custom Suit

Black Lapel Egyptian Blue Linen Suit
  • Material: 38% Wool, 34% Silk, 28% Linen
  • Yarn Fineness: Not Listed
  • Fabric Weight: Not Listed
  • Lining: 100% Bemberg
  • Buttons: Brown Bull Horn
  • Price: $849* [Shop Now]

* With “FTOBESPOKEUNIT” $50 Discount Code

Shop Now

This is a beautifully crafted premium linen suit in a stunning Egyptian blue from Black Lapel Savoy Line. Featuring 28% linen by E. Thomas, it is also composed by 34% silk and 38% wool. As the wool helps reduce creases, the silk provides even more breathability and comfort while even reducing the overall weight.

3. Indochino Gray Check Linen Blend Suit

Indochino Gray Check Linen Blend Suit
  • Material: 70% Wool, 15% Linen, 15% Silk
  • Yarn Fineness: Super 100s
  • Fabric Weight: 280 gsm
  • Lining: Not Listed
  • Buttons: Not Listed
  • Price: $299* [Shop Now]

* With “BESPOKEUNIT” $30 Discount Code

Shop Now

A more balanced linen blend, this suit by Indochino can be worn in all seasons. Like the suit above, the linen helps the suit breathe while the silk reduces the weight. Meanwhile, the check pattern adds a unique visual interest to the classic khaki suit.

4. Indochino Washed Indigo Plaid Linen Suit

Indochino Washed Indigo Plaid Linen Suit
  • Material: 100% Linen
  • Yarn Fineness: Not Listed
  • Fabric Weight: 290 gsm
  • Lining: Not Listed
  • Buttons: Not Listed
  • Price: $339* [Shop Now]

* With “BESPOKEUNIT” $30 Discount Code

Shop Now

With its unique plaid pattern, Indochino’s pure linen suit is a great alternative to the classic khaki version. Being made from 100% linen, you’ll benefit from all its properties (but also endure the drawbacks too). Furthermore, the washed indigo color scheme is quite unusual yet particularly visually engaging.

5. Hockerty Beige Double Breasted Linen Suit

Hockerty Beige Double Breasted Linen Suit
  • Material: 100% Linen
  • Yarn Fineness: Not Listed
  • Fabric Weight: 220 gsm
  • Lining: Not Listed
  • Buttons: Not Listed
  • Price: $242* [Shop Now]

* With “BESPOKEUNIT” 10% Discount Code

Shop Now

As another alternative to the classic khaki linen suit, Hockerty offer this stylish double-breasted design. Bear in mind that like the other entries above, it can be completely personalised to your taste into a single-breasted suit too.

Learn About Other Fabrics & Patterns

Now that you’re better educated on linen, we hope that you feel comfortable trying it out as a suit or another type of garment. If you’re interested, take a look at our other fabric guides, such as:

Linen Suit Fabric Guide
Reviewed by Garrett W., on .
"Perfect for the summmer! Thanks for writing this guide and offering such excellent recommendations too."
Rating: 5.0 ★★★★★

Black Lapel Sidebar Banner

Newsletter

Best Of Bespoke Unit & the Web