As part of our suit fit guides series, we’ll address how a waistcoat (both single and double-breasted) is supposed to fit.
Although often seen as an option item, the waistcoat is a fundamental part of a suit and can add significant panache to your attire.
We’ll be covering how a waistcoat should fit with the following points:
Use the links above to jump ahead to a specific section or scroll down to read it all.
How A Waistcoat Should Fit
In this guide, you’ll be able to take a closer look at the waistcoat through our graphics, which will provide a deeper visual insight. We’ll begin by provide a broad overview at the beginning, before diving into its finite details.
Additionally, we have also created detailed guides on each suit garment. Therefore, you can learn about their correct fit too:
Waistcoat Fit Overview
The following graphic provides you with a broad visual overview in how a waistcoat should properly fit.
The waistcoat (or “vest” in American English) is a fine item. While it’s true that a well-fitting suit will make any man look like the most dapper version of himself, the waistcoat adds an element of handsomeness that you just can’t get any other way.
A properly fitted waistcoat should be snug in the body but not so tight that the buttons pull. It should also be long enough to hit about an inch below the trouser waistband, showing no dress shirt between the two garments.
It’ll keep you a bit warmer in the wintertime, and you’ll be able to take your jacket off indoors and still look “dressed.” In fact, we liken a three-piece suit to the most elegant suit of armor that you’ll ever wear. As such, it’s extremely important that it fit you well.
There are two main elements to the fit of a waistcoat: it’s overall fit in the body, and its length.
Waistcoat Fit Details
In a minimalist garment as a waistcoat, the fit of the body is nearly everything. Like a jacket, it should be snug but not tight. It should lay smoothly against your chest and only have minimal bunching in the back where the adjustable strap cinches you in.
If the buttons show signs of pulling, it’s too tight. If there’s some extra room at the sides (typically around the armpits), your tailor can take it in for you.
It’s particularly important that your waistcoat fit well in your body because it can adversely affect the fit of your jacket if it doesn’t. If you’ve spent the time and money to get your jacket to fit your torso beautifully, there’s no sense in ruining that by throwing a boxy waistcoat underneath it.
Correct Waistcoat Length
A waistcoat’s length is the other hugely important factor regarding its fit. It can be complex because your trouser fit will affect its look.
The rule of thumb is that a single-breasted waistcoat front should end about an inch lower than your trouser’s waistband, and its back should end just at the base of the waistband. The graphics above and below demonstrate this.
A double-breasted waistcoat should finish just below the waistband all around. The point here is that your belt should not be visible when wearing a waistcoat. If there’s a sliver of leather showing in the back, fine, you’ll live. But this cannot be the case in the front.
The reason for this is that covering up the waistband with your waistcoat gives the viewer a single, unbroken vertical line from your shoes right up to your handsome face. Breaking this up will make you look like you’re wearing a kid’s garment, and that does you no favors (especially if you’re on the shorter side of the spectrum).
See our guides for how to dress for your body type, no matter what it is.
Deviations From Proper Fit In The Fashion World
In the past couple of years we’ve seen some shorter waistcoats on three-piece suits. While this rule can relax a bit when we talk about more casual vests with jeans, it’s not advisable when we’re talking about suits. That’s the kind of thing that will change with the winds of fashion, and we don’t recommend jumping onto that particular bandwagon.
Keep in mind that a waistcoat’s length cannot be altered. If it’s too long, put it back. If it’s too short, put it back. If the length isn’t right in a scenario in which the vest was made to order for you, it will have to be re-made. If you can get it right, though, you will look fantastic.
Conclusion
Proper fit is essential for any garment, not just waistcoats. We have a 15-minute guide to the proper fit of each element of a suit to help you get a sense of how everything should fit.
Do you have a suit you love whose fit isn’t quite hitting the mark? Check out our extensive guide to alterations that will let you know what can be done and approximately what it will cost.
What Next?
Now that you have read our guide to how a jacket should fit, consider reading some of our related content:
Ultimate Suit Fit Guide Pages
I have a few waist coats which do not have the back strap to take in the extra material. Are they intended to fit a certain way? I have 1-2 inches of slack between my vest. Should I have it taken in? I’m concerned that I may gain weight thereby my making my garment useless.
Hi Mike,
Yeah, it’s a tough choice to choose whether to alter something or not due to changes in weight. For instance, I’m a little portlier than I’d like but I’m currently being fitted for suits. As you seem to understand, it’s easier to take in than take out so I’m less concerned about this.
Indeed, the waistcoat is meant fit well without too much excess and a few inches sounds like a fair bit. I’d see with a tailor whether it can be let in but material can be spared in case of eventual weight gain if you’re concerned about it.
Best,
CP
Hello. Would a waist coat marked height 5’ 8” fit someone who is 5’10”? Might seem a daft question but I presume leg length varies.
Hi Gordon,
It might do! Two inches can be a lot but you never know. It depends whether you’re tall in the torso or in the legs!
Best,
CP
Can you tell me how it should fit under the arms please? Maybe an idea of distance below arm pit? Thanks
I don’t think that there’s a hard rule here but it should allow for freedom of movement without causing the waistcoat to crease or show much shirt under the armpit.
Hope this helps!
Best,
CP
How do you wear a waistcoat with braces on suit trousers?
Absolutely! In fact, we recommend braces as belts can distort the shape of the waistcoat!
love the look of this vest.
Thanks!
This post is incredible thanks for sharing.
You’re welcome!
It’s hard to tell from the pictures provided how “low” a waistcoat is supposed to sit at in relation to the belt.
Is it right at the lower belt line, perhaps one or two cm over?
I’ve noticed its difficult to keep the waistcoat in place, especially when sitting/standing.
I love wearing waistcoats, but I have having my (tucked) shirt showing from underneath them.
Any thoughts?
Hi Carlos,
Like you said, you don’t want to see any shirt between the waistcoat and the trouser. Therefore, there should be enough waistcoat to cover it even when you stretch. Personally, I wear high-rise trousers with a waistcoat so that it’s always covered but that might be too aggressive for you. 2 cm seems very little to me. I’d be inclined to go for around 5 cm at least.
All the best,
CP
Is it a no for the belt buckle to show even though the shirt doesn’t seem to appear when wearing a waistcoat?
Hey Regie,
Indeed, you want to avoid any part of a belt showing from under your waistcoat.
Rafael