The History Behind Braces
Although Albert Thurston invented the first modern pair in 1820 (and who still makes them in Leicester, England), it is generally accepted that suspenders were born in France as the “gallus,” though the exact timing of this is unknown. The originals were made from silk ribbon and were made in a wide variety of patterns and colors.
These accessories were originally designed to accompany the high waisted pants that were in fashion. These high pants were worn so high, belts could not hold them up! The suspenders designed by Thurston attached to the pants by leather loops, still being made today.
Suspenders were sold to American colonists by traveling peddlers and technically qualify as the first ready-to-wear item in history, hundreds of years before Brooks Brothers’ Number One Sack Suit.
A Hidden Detail
Braces were considered to be an undergarment, never to be seen in public. As a staple of every mans wardrobe throughout the 1920’s they lost favor during the 1930s as the waistcoats that used to cover this essential piece of ‘underwear’ were worn less.
Not wanting to expose their intimates to all and sundry, men promptly switched to belts and herein we see the demise in the braces’ popularity.
Braces were far more popular than belts up until the First World War, at which point soldiers, having worn yarn belts with their uniforms, returned home with a preference for belts over braces. As more lightweight clothing became available during the Jazz Age, suspenders began losing some steam, sales-wise, compared to belts.
The Popularity Of Braces Wanes
This trend continued through the 1980’s, as men returning home from World War II preferred donning belts with their grey flannel suits, and the slimmer fits of the 60’s and 70’s made braces nearly obsolete, at least with young men.
Visible suspenders were risqué; in 1938 a town in Long Island, NY tried to ban gentleman from wearing them without a coat. The town called this risky move a “sartorial indecency.” The ban was overturned after residents complained.
Slowly, even after the waistcoat was worn less often, pants were fashioned to start sitting lower meaning suspenders began to fade more. However, they didn’t completely disappear. Doctors in the late 1920s recommended suspenders to patients with larger stomachs. Actors, like Humphrey Bogart and Ralph Richardson both wore them. Richardson even bought six pairs when World War II broke out in anticipation of fabric rations.
Post World War II Style
The 1960’s brought back braces in pop-culture. They can be spotted in the movie A Clockwork Orange, worn by famous hooligan, Alex DeLarge (Malcolm MacDowell). The British skinheads adopted suspenders into their working-class look. They can be seen attached to blue jeans that didn’t need help staying up.
The movie Annie Hall even brought around braces being worn by working women who wanted a more “unisex” look. Note: In Britain, suspenders refer to the undergarment holding up ladies stockings.
People Magazine released an article in 1986 recommending that “fashion-forward teens” wear their suspenders hanging from their waist, not worn on their shoulders. Movies in the late 1980s also began to associate suspenders with wealth while TV gave suspenders a different vibe: the nerd.
Modern Revival of Braces
While braces were mostly absent from wardrobes in the 1990s and early 2000s, they could still be seen in the Punk and Grunge scenes. More recently, hip-hop style icon Fonzworth Bentley popularized the preppy dandy look in pop-culture.
This look has also pushed for a fascination with early 20th century culture. Men are looking towards the dandy style of the early 1900s for inspiration for their wardrobe and lifestyle. More speakeasy themed bars, mustaches and, of course, braces are being seen.
Suspenders are still less popular than belts, especially with men under the age of fifty. Still, many of us are re-discovering their virtues from both sartorial and comfort perspectives. We get into that more below.
Why Wear Suspenders?
In a nutshell: increased comfort and ease of movement, vertical lines to make you appear taller and / or slimmer, and general nattiness.
Lots of men are afraid of suspenders, and it’s understandable why that’s the case. We’re concerned about looking affected, we don’t know how they should be worn, or we simply don’t want to rock the sartorial boat too much. If you’re a younger guy, wearing braces will draw a lot of attention to you, and that’s an uncomfortable feeling if you’re not 100% confident in what you’re doing.
Still, it’s worth a try. Let’s explore the reasons we gave above as to why you should wear suspenders:
- Increased comfort: Belts cinch your pants around your waist. Anyone who’s ever worn a belt (which is everyone) knows that you have to tuck and re-tuck your shirt over and over again when wearing a belt.
Braces, on the other hand, make your trousers hang from the shoulder, essentially letting them float around your waist. It takes a bit of getting used to, but the comfort and freedom of movement this allows is second-to-none.
- Vertical lines: Braces instantly add two vertical lines to your torso. If you are a short or heavyset body type, this is hugely beneficial. These vertical lines give height to short men and work to slim heavyset men.
- General nattiness: Suspenders look rakish for a number of reasons. First, their rarity relative to belts gives them some instant style points. Second, they occupy the same visual plane as your shirt and tie, which means that they offer an additional opportunity to accessorize in terms of color and pattern. While this presents an additional challenge, the payoff is exponential.
Conversely, if you are tall but not heavyset, you may want to avoid braces. They will simply amplify your height, which you need no help with.
Wearing Your Suspenders With Style
There’s quite a bit to know about how to best wear your braces. So much so, in fact, that we’ve given this topic its own page.
Our comprehensive guide covers everything that you need to know about how to wear your suspenders including some general style tips like color coordination and buckle placement, as well as some examples of classic suspender pairings, such as braces with jeans.
Take a look at our guide on how to wear suspenders for more info.
How To Put On Your Suspenders
Just getting into wearing suspenders but aren’t sure how they work, exactly?
Putting on suspenders really is a simple task and ultimately becomes second nature you’ve done it a few times.
However, for men who may not be accustomed to wearing braces on a regular basis it can seem quite difficult when trying to put them on at first.
You can check out our detailed page on how to put on braces for a graphic-driven, step-by-step guide.
How to Store Your Suspenders
Hanging on your Trousers
We recommend storing your trousers with the suspenders still on them. This means you would follow the first set of instructions above on how to put on your suspenders. Storing your trousers with their suspenders means they’re ready to go for the next time you are ready to wear them.
Of course, you’ll want to take off the suspenders when you get your pants cleaned. You also may want to switch out your suspenders to a different design if you enjoy wearing them and are building a collection.
To store everything all together you’ll want some trouser hangers and a high closet bar, if possible. Fold your trousers on the front and back crease, not the seams along the side.
Holding the bottom cuff of the trousers, attach the hanger, leaving the suspenders attached at the waist. Hang your trousers on a high bar, preferably your suspenders wouldn’t touch the floor.
If you do not have access to a high enough bar, that is fine as well, your suspenders can drape along the floor at the bottom, or you can even put a small box to collect the hanging suspenders so they are not touching the floor.
There are various types of pant hangers. You’ll want the type of pant hanger that clamps the end of the trouser and allows them to hang down. We recommend either Allen Edmond pant hangers or a generic type that has a strong grip. Be careful not to choose one that has a sharper grip so you don’t ruin your trousers.
Storing Detached From Trousers
If you’re not ready to commit your trousers to have your suspenders on them at all times, it is perfectly normal and acceptable to remove the suspenders when you are putting away your trousers.
The best way to store your suspenders, when they are not attached to trousers, is by hanging them in a place where they can be straight. Belt hooks, wall hooks or even movable garment hooks can be used to hang your suspenders.
You’ll want to make sure the hooks are about 2 inches apart. This will allow the back “Y” loops to gracefully loop onto each hook with the front straps extending straight below. You don’t want the hooks to be too far apart were it will put strain on the straps, potentially damaging them, so having them closer is always better.
We recommend the black hooks on the left from Ikea or from a wire storage rack. If you can’t find either, look for a hanging belt rack that has hooks spaced about 2 inches apart. We recommend one with a cedar block to keep your suspenders smelling fresh and any moths away.
If you do not have room to hang your suspenders, folding them will also work. If you do opt to fold them, be weary of the fabric / material. Too much pressure on the folds can cause creases. Fold the suspenders in quarters lengthwise and store them in a drawer or box.
Making Your Own Pair
If you’re more of a DIY kind of guy, then you might be up for making your own suspenders. The benefits of making your own braces are numerous, and two huge ones come to mind:
- Fully customizable: You pick out the colors and materials, so there’s no aspect of the suspenders that you don’t like.
- Perfect sizing: While braces are adjustable, men with pot bellies or particularly long or short torsos do well with braces that are sized specifically for them. Making your own pair allows you to achieve a perfect fit.
If you’re curious for more, here’s our full guide on how to make suspenders.
How To Retrofit Your Trousers With Suspender Buttons
Do you have trousers you love that don’t take suspenders? We’ve been there…
You can take your trousers to a tailor and have them put brace buttons in.
Alternatively, you can just do this yourself with a few items and some determination.
If you would like to add suspender buttons to a pair of pants and are up for fun DIY project then check out our guide on how to retrofit your pants for suspenders. Enjoy!
Conclusion: Rules Around Wearing Suspenders
- Never wear braces with a belt, ever. Under any circumstances. You’re better off with your pants falling down.
- Never, ever, ever wear clip-on braces. Popular as these are with Disneyland’s Dapper Day, they are decidedly bush league. You’re a grown man, you can wear proper braces.
- Your trousers’ waistband should be looser than you’re used to. This isn’t to say that you should be swimming in your pants, but to allow them to “float” with suspenders as they should, they needn’t be snug.
You can also access the rest of our suspender content by clicking any of the links below:
For more information on suits and the accessories that go with them, we invite you to visit our suiting home page.