If you or anyone else has ever referred to you as a “shrimp,” this article will show you how to dress better.
It’s tough being small, especially as a man. You’re not taken as seriously as your taller counterparts, you have to work twice as hard to get noticed at the office, and potential mates often overlook you, literally and figuratively.
Michael is a short man, and the first suit he bought was a “His First” Hickey Freeman. It was a boys size 16. He was 23 years old and had a Bachelor’s Degree, yet there he was buying a suit that could have fit a husky middle schooler.
It’s very difficult to find good-looking, well-made clothing for small-framed adult men. You’re not going to find killer sport coats in the boys’ section, fellas.
If you’re on this page but aren’t sure that its contents are right for you, see our high-level guide in which we cover nine different body types, two body type “modifications (“athletic” and “irregular“), and the methodology with which we created them all. You’ll be able to determine your body type and link to its article from there.
If, on the other hand, you’re here because you know you’re a short, thin man and wish to dress better, we welcome you. Enjoy.
What Is A Short, Thin Man?
We classify short, thin men as 5’6″ or shorter with a slender build. It’s likely that you weigh a maximum of 130 pounds on the tall end, and maybe close to 100 pounds on the short end. You’ve been called “shrimp,” “shorty” or “scrawny” at some point in your life.
The key for short, thin men is to make yourself look as tall as possible while giving the appearance of muscularity. We’re not saying that dressing well will make you look tall and ripped, but it will make you look less short and more cut.
How To Dress The Short & Thin Male Body Type
It’s a pain to be a small man. Brands rarely have anything off-the-rack for you that fits, and if something comes close, it needs a ton of alterations. Even then, it might not look good, or you’ve compromised on style. Read on to see how to make the best of it.
Jackets
- Typical chest size for the tiny man: 34-36
- Typical jacket length for the short thin man: Always go with a “short” length when available
Though he was featured in our article for short guys of average frame, Mike is enough of a shrimp to be used a reference for this article too, despite the impending dadbod he’s trying to avoid.
Let’s just get this out of the way now: your best bet is going custom or made-to-measure. Very few brands make jacket sizes that will fit you, and if they do, selection is severely limited. There are so many made-to-measure retailers nowadays that the price has been driven down to ready-to-wear levels. If you were thinking about spending $500 on a jacket, don’t even bother going to a store. Head over to Indochino for a great starting point.
If you happen to be in Asia, we have a great set of reviews of the best tailors in Phuket, Thailand!
Fit is extremely important for small men. The minute your clothes are too big, you’re going to look like a little kid who borrowed his dad’s sport jacket for the job fair. you will not be taken seriously.
Trousers
- Typical trouser waist size: 26″-30″
- Typical trouser inseam: 26″-30″, though this can once again be based on preference for the kind of break you prefer and how high (or low) your trousers sit in relation to your waist.
Make your trousers slim, with just enough room to move. You can’t have any extra material hanging off of you, lest you look shorter and thinner than you already are. We suggest plain fronts with no cuffs. This will maximize length while not adding any girth.
We suggest a generous taper from an already slim thigh, which will accentuate as much height as possible.
Neckties
- Typical necktie width: Skinny ties range can be as narrow as 2″, and kipper ties can be as wide as 5″.
You’ll look very good in a 2.75″ wide necktie, which is decidedly slim. A 3″ wide tie will work for you if you have more conservative tastes. Either way, make sure the tie width roughly syncs up with your jacket’s lapel width.
Pattern
Small-framed men are best served by wearing small-scale patterns. You should feel lucky in this regard. Most guys can’t pull off micro patterns well because their bodies offer too much real estate for the pattern to cover. It’s dizzying to look at a puppytooth blazer on a 6’3″, 250-pound gentleman. You, though? You can wear them to great effect.
We particularly like stripes for small guys. Thin pinstripes closely spaced work best. It’s best to avoid large-scale patterns, which can swallow you up and make you look smaller than you actually are.
Braces Versus Belts
- Typical belt size (remembering to size up from your pant waist size): 30-32″
- Typical brace size (“suspenders” in American English): Not applicable, as most are adjustable “one-size-fits-all” models
We’re fans of braces for small men. The additional vertical lines add height, and they’re more comfortable than a belt regardless of frame. Belts also offer a horizontal line, which cuts you in half. Save belts for casual clothing, stick with braces for tailored suits.
Shoes
- Typical shoe size for the average guy: U.S. 6D-8D (5-7 in U.K. sizing, with medium width)
Big, bulky shoes will make you look like you have clown feet, especially if they’re worn with tapered trousers. Try to stick to slim shoes that have tapered lasts.
More delicate shoes from Italian brands will work well on small frames. Even non-Italian brands make elegant, slim shoes like the black tassel loafers pictured above, which are from Allen Edmonds.
Small Build Celebrities
Closing Words
It is really really tough to dress well as a small man. By being persistent when shopping and budgeting properly for made-to-measure clothing, you can look good and not necessarily spend a ton of money either.
We strongly encourage you to read our article on irregularities in the male body to fully flesh out your wardrobe. Everyone, no matter their build, has some kind of irregularity in the body and its best to know what that is before you spend your hard-earned money.
A couple of notes about braces (apologies for not using metric units). While the ‘standard’ size is 48″, they do come in 42″, which ensures the clasps will be reasonably positioned on one’s body. The other thing is their width. 1.5″, not an uncommon size, looks too big on a small torso. !.375″ is passable, but I much prefer 1.25″ if I can find them.
Thanks, David! Inches are fine and I prefer 1.25″ too!
What about us shorty’s with shoe sizes less than 6? I really don’t want to buy kids shoes.
Hi Thomas,
I understand that this can be challenging. Paul, the founder of BU, in on the opposite side of things with a 14 US foot size so he often struggles in finding shoe brands that manufacture his size.
I can recommend two of our favourite brands right off the bat as they produce sizes less than 6:
– Ace Marks
– Allen Edmonds
Ace Marks is the cheaper option, its shoes are made in Italy from premium calfskin and assembled using blake stitching. I just took a look and its stock in smaller sizes can be sporadic as it’s a human-sized independent brand but there are several options available. You can read our review here to learn more about them.
You may have heard about Allen Edmonds. It’s a major brand and well-known in the USA for good reason. Although its shoes are more expensive, they’re usually made using a Goodyear welt. Similarly, it has a larger selection of shoes available in small sizes.
I hope this helps!
Best,
CP
This article is 40% fashion advice and 60% body-shaming. Maybe rather than taking for granted the idea that short, thin men won’t be taken seriously and using words like “shrimpy,” we could be a little more body-positive and acknowledge that judging a person based on their stature is superficial. I think the tone here really highlights the problems with the ways the traditional masculine ideal creates a social hierarchy between men and views many different kinds of men (not just short thin men) as “lesser” to idolize a select few.
Hi there,
I agree with what you’re saying and see where you’re coming from. The purpose of these guides are to look your best whatever your body structure without seeking to conform to specific beauty standards. The author of this article is himself 5’6″ and I believe he was seeking to use self-deprecating humour to lighten the mood. We’ll look at rewriting it to avoid causing further offence.
All the best,
CP