Are you a muscular guy who’s having trouble buying clothes? If so, this article will show you how to dress better.
We’ve put together a collection of articles that detail the ins and outs of various male body types. If you’ve landed on this page, you may have already read about your body type in this high-level guide. If you haven’t yet done so or are just joining us, please give that guide a look.
We consider “athletic” to be a body modification as much as it is a body type. You are otherwise short, tall, or average height, and you’ll benefit from reading the article that best pertains to you in addition to this one.
If you’re tall, for example, read our article on tall guys too.
What’s An “Athletic” Body Type?
By “athletic,” we don’t mean that you play softball in a 40-and-over league wherein there may or may not be a keg at second base. We mean someone with shoulders much wider than his hips, who more likely than not has a big chest, shoulders, and arms.
This is a mesomorph who works at it.
The key for athletic guys is to get jackets and trousers tailored in a way that accommodates the “inverted triangle” shape of his torso and his narrow waist.
*Editor’s Note: An athletic man can be athletic at any height or weight. This article is just as much for a 5’4″ flyweight as it is for the 6’5″ heavyweight. The important factor is the muscularity of the shoulders and chest in relation to the natural waist.
Clothing The Athletic Frame
The gym-going among us possess a torso coveted by many: the V-shape where your chest and shoulders are significantly larger than your waist. This is awesome until you need to buy a suit, at which point “drop” (the mathematical difference between jacket chest size and pant waist size for RTW suits) becomes a problem.
The average drop in the U.S. is about six inches, so if you have a 46-inch chest, that would normally be sold with trousers that have a 40-inch waistband. Someone who lifts will likely have a bigger drop.
Thankfully, drop is only an issue when RTW suits are sold as pre-ordained sets. Many places nowadays sell “suit separates” in which you can buy matching jackets and pants but pair the sizes up as is appropriate for your frame. If you’re on a budget, this is where to start.
If you can afford it, have a suit made. Your frame is tough to fit and your best bet at looking great is to have something made for you.
Jackets
- Typical chest size: 42″-50″ depending on the degree to which you blast your pecs
- Typical length: Height-dependent
Good lapel width relative to the entire shoulder for an athletic man.
We suggest two-button, single-breasted jackets for athletic guys. Lapels should be wide enough to not get lost in your chest, so nothing skinny like we often see in GQ. A bit of waist suppression is a good thing, but don’t overdo it. If your tailor nips your jacket waist in too much, that will only further accentuate your chest and make you look like a capital T.
You can wear double-breasted jackets, but we feel they look best when worn as a 4×1 or 4×2. A 6×2 model will add a lot of breadth to your frame, and you don’t need that.
If for some reason you insist on a three-button model, don’t button the top button.
Trousers
Wider cut trousers will make the top of your frame more proportional with the bottom.
We suggest a somewhat fuller-cut trouser so as to avoid looking like you have chicken legs. If you do squats, you’ll need a fuller cut anyway.
This doesn’t mean go with full-blown Oxford bags or otherwise baggy pants. Just don’t wear mega-slim trousers.
Pants at the natural waist are best for an athletic guy, but they can sit a bit below your navel if you prefer. Pleats versus plain front is a style decision that you can feel free to make based on your preference, though we typically suggest plain front trousers.
Neckties
A 3″ tie will serve most athletic guys well. We recommend avoiding ties with horizontal motifs, as these will draw the eye across your body, which commands enough of its own attention as it is.
Patterns
Keep things conservative with a striped tie. You’ll draw less attention to your frame.
Solids and stripes work best for athletic guys, as more conspicuous patterns will draw even more attention to your frame. If you want to branch out, we suggest doing so in as subtle a manner as possible.
Braces Or Belts?
This decision should be made based on your height. If you’re short and muscular, try some braces before putting on a belt. Tall men (muscular or otherwise) benefit from belts, which don’t further elongate them like braces do.
Shoes
Athletes should pay particular attention to their footwear. Specifically, they should opt for something that’s a bit heavier in construction but still has an elegant last. Something daintier will look out of place on your frame and should be avoided. Think British as opposed to Italian.
Athletic Build Celebrities
- Arnold Schwarzenegger
- Dwayne Johnson
- Evander Holyfield
- Hulk Hogan
- Jean-Claude Van Damme (in a comically dated, ill-fitting suit)
A Last Word On The Athletic Male Body Type
As with many non-average body types, your best bet as an athletic man is to buy made-to-measure or custom suits. If you buy off-the-rack, you must buy suit separates, which may limit your selection in a very unhelpful way.
There’s also a good chance you have an irregularity or two about your body. As such, we recommend that you read our page on irregularities as well.
Thanks for these tips. I’ve always had a drop that exceeds 6″. When I was younger, it was 10″. Now, it’s still 8″, and as you noted, you need a tailor. Today’s suit styles are particularly difficult. Skinny lapels, narrow legs, virtually no seat in the pants does not work for the guy who lifts, and especially for the guy who squats. One item you didn’t address here is waistcoats. I started wearing waistcoats this winter. Do waistcoats help muscular gents or not?
Hi Lukacs,
Thanks for your comments! A quality waistcoat looks great on most body types as long as it fits correctly! A common pitfall is muscular men wearing waistcoats that are too tight, which can dwarf your torso against your biceps and shoulders.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Best,
CP
This entire article is well written with lots of considerations. I read your article on button stance as well, and I have a question to consult with you in terms of suit style.
Personally, I do olympic weightlifting, 170cm and 80kg, so I say I’m in the middle, short but no too short, muscular but not too muscular, so:
In terms of single breasted suit, I aim to have a one button jacket make bespoke, but your article on button stance suggest a higher button stance. My question is, if I place the position of that only button little higher than waistline, it is theoretically the best of both world, high stanc withless details, but in this situation, will i need to add a bottum button to “add balance to the suit” or I’ll be fine with the single button?
Hi George,
Good question!
I’m 76 kg and 173 cm. Although my build is probably different to yours, I love single-button jackets as they’re great for guys at our height. For a good balance, I would recommend that the button be placed around the navel and no more than a centimetre above it. I imagine that if you have the flexibility to choose the button stance, you have access to a tailor. I would ask him for his opinion too as you’d be face-to-face with him.
All the best,
CP
Hi CP,
I’ve been having difficulties finding the right fit. I’ll describe my frame: I am 6’2”, my chest is somewhere between 44L”-46L”, and my trousers are between 36”-38”. I don’t think my frame is Big & Tall, as my weight is around 220lbs. I just feel many off-the-rack clothing fits me awkward. Low rise trousers (abundant on the market), in combination to regular jacket lengths make me look like I am heavy set. Since I am rather tall and have large chest measurements, I want to flatter my frame as best as possible.
Would you consider I abide to the athletic frame described above?
And additionally, would you suggest British tailoring or 3-piece suits?
Thank you,
Peter
Hi Peter,
Firstly, it doesn’t sound like you’re necessarily a big and tall chap. For instance, you have a 6″ to 8″ difference between your waist and chest, which usually indicates a healthy frame. You might, however, fit better in the tall category instead?
I agree that low-rise trousers won’t help. They’ll also potentially make your legs look oddly short. I believe the best approach would be opting for fitted and tailored clothing that is subtly taken in at the waist. Meanwhile, your belt line should be just below the navel by about only and inch or two.
Since you’re not an average size and most larger clothes cater to heavyset men, off-the-rack clothing might be a pain for you. You could shop with these and get everything altered.
Otherwise, have you considered made-to-measure tailoring? I realise that this sounds expensive but we work with Indochino who specialised in affordable made-to-measure clothing. You can use our “BESPOKEUNIT” discount code for $30, which works both in-store and online.
All the best,
CP
Really enjoyed the article some great advice that I’ve been trying to find for a while. I believe I’m a bit of an odd case though… I’ve got a 48/49 inch chest and 34 inch waist. I’ve given up on anything other than a tailored suit for formal wear which is fine. It’s more so casual wear that I struggle with. I like clothes that fit correctly, but by sizing down to suit my midsection I end up with a top thats stretched within an inch of it’s life across my shoulders and chest. Typically I just buy to suit my shoulders (XXL), midsection (M/L) be dammed. But I end up with a baggy mess around my stomach. I don’t want everything I wear to have to be tailored, short of picking up the Ben and Jerry’s or dropping the dumbbells – can you offer any advice for casual wear with a drop that vast?
Hi Oisin,
I sympathise. For me, it’s the other way around!
Honestly, with a drop like that, tailored clothing is really the only way to go. For things like t-shirts, I’m sure that there are brands that are specialised in providing well-fitted clothes for athletic men like Barbell Apparel and Muscle Fit Basics.
Otherwise, if it’s shirts that you’re after, I recommend checking out the custom brands in our shirt guide. Granted, they will be a little pricier than regular dress shirts. However, the benefits that they will provide will be worth it.
All the best,
CP
How would you recommend short men (under 5″6 with broad shoulders and long legs dress? It’s a body type I associate with fit middle eastern guys.
Especially when accompanied by an oblong face?
Hi there,
I suggest that you head to this guide where we offer tips for shorter men.
All the best,
CP
I am 6 ft 4….49 inch chest and a 36 inch waist….228 Lbs. I’m certainly an ectomorph. Not the strongest or most muscular at the gym….but I am usually one of the taller broader guys. I don’ try to bulk anymore…I try to stay as lean as I can. Shirts are a nightmare…I have to fit my shoulders 1st and then try to shrink my clothes down. Pants no problem….36′ jeans.
Hey Jay,
As mentioned in the article, we definitely recommend going for custom made clothing. It seems like a pain and an expensive alternative however there are vendors now that will make a shirt to your measurements and it’s quite affordable especially if you plan on wearing them for many years. Our favorite is Apposta: https://bespokeunit.com/articles/suits/apposta/. These are Italian shirts where almost every aspect can be customized and made to your individual measurements. They start around $70 which is less than what many off-the-rack shirts of a lesser quality can cost.
Rafael
I was hoping you would give us some places to buy trousers that would be fit for a heavy muscled thigh. Where do you buy clothing for a more rounded shape in the legs. In men’s wear the rise is so long it comes up under your armpits in men’s clothing if you get the right leg size. Not helpful at all. We know what the problems are. You have done little to resolve it. We need to know companies that would make clothing for our body type.
Hey Lark,
Our guide here is more geared towards the type of fits to go for as opposed to suggesting retailers that offer “Athletic” fit trousers. Fortunately, more and more men’s clothing retailers are taking the Athletic build into account and now offer jeans/trousers with more room in the leg. This being said, it’s still quite possible that you’ll have to get a new pair of trousers tailored to best fit you. Shortening the leg is a rather quick fix for trousers, so it shouldn’t be incredibly expensive, and I think the customized fit will look significantly better than any off-the-rack pants you may find.
Rafael