Bespoke Focus 4

This week’s #BespokeFocus – What I Can’t Live Without

This week, we’re highlighting the garments and accessories that the five of us can’t live without. Here are our five different interpretations:

Carlos – Seersucker Shirt

Seersucker shirt custom made

“I love seersucker. One day, they will know me as the Sultan of Seersucker, and this shirt started it. This was the first shirt Cesar Renuan ever designed for me; it also started my obsession for big collars. This guy stands up on it’s own without any collar stays or gimmicks, and when it’s closed it has a really cool vintage aesthetic. It’s the perfect shirt for Miami, the texture keeps the sweat and humidity off your back and it doesn’t wrinkle… because it’s all wrinkles. I’ve worn this shirt to the beach, the office, and even with a navy tuxedo. Shoot, I’ve probably slept in it some debaucherous nights.”

Charles-Philippe – Sentimental Value

Vintage pocket watch on albert chain

“Choosing an item without which I couldn’t live was a hard task. The majority of my ensembles incorporate items that have significant sentimental value, pieces of attire that were either gifts or have been passed down several generations. The fedora in this image, for example, was a leaving-gift from my first job, where I also met my wife (who, incidentally, more-or-less masterminded the present). However, after some thought and perusal of my previous instagram posts, I realized that the key item, ever-present, is a little Albert chain across my waistcoat with a fob. This little fob was a Valentine’s gift for my wife where we both took one – one for her on a necklace and the other for me on my Albert chain. Although never in shot, at the end of the chain is a nondescript stainless steel Mont Royal pocket watch. A twenty-first birthday present from my grandfather, engraved on the back is “Carpe Diem” with my initials. It was a good year for watches as my father also gave me a beautiful Titanium wristwatch, which I equally love. Unfortunately, conventions forbid me from wearing them together. For any waistcoat enthusiast, a pocket watch is the ideal companion – it provides extra form and detail to one’s “sartorial armour.” Moreover, with the use of a fob, the wearer can add a flair of personal identity and style. Some may argue that a pocket chain is reserved for formal attire, but I disagree – it’s the perfect companion for both keeping time and adding both an aesthetic and stylistic edge.”

Damien – Pocket Square

Unique pocket square fold in denim shirt

“As a resident of southern California, where it’s pretty warm all year round and gets blisteringly hot in the summer, wearing a blazer isn’t always an option. But that doesn’t stop me from wearing accessories like my beloved pocket squares, though. In searching for ways to add a little bit of traditional dapperness when wearing a minimal amount of layers, I’ve found that you can easily incorporate a nice light square with just about anything that has a breast pocket. Whether it’s in a denim shirt, an oxford button down, or even a lightweight waistcoat, a pocket square can be an excellent way to set yourself apart from the crowd without needing a heavy outer layer when it’s hot out. Don’t be afraid to experiment with different contrasting colors, patterns, and folds if you want that little extra bit pop. And as with all style experiments, wear it with confidence! “

Craig – Waistcoats

Collection of vintage waistcoats including tweeds

“I think I may have a mild obsession with waistcoats, whether they come with a three piece suit, as a new piece on their own, or thrifted. Waistcoats take an otherwise ordinary outfit and lift it to a new level, adding a touch of dapper to the mundane. Being in the UK, they’re ideal as an additional layer, over a shirt to keep off the spring chill, or under a cardigan and tweed blazer on colder days. They’re versatile and can be dressed up or down and come in all colours and fabrics to suit any look. I have plain ones, knitted ones, and tweed ones, some checked, some pinstriped. I’m currently looking after 23 – 30 if you include my knitted and Fairisle ones which I’ve been collecting over this winter!”

Paul – Fit

Man getting a custom Holland & Sheery three piece suit tailored

“If my clothes don’t fit well, I don’t feel well. It’s that simple!

There are several points that one should look at when it comes to the fit of a suit. For example:

  • sleeve length
  • trouser length
  • jacket length
  • shoulder width
  • chest size

There are of course many other small things, but these are the “big 5″. Some other considerations may be shoulder slope, musculature, how one’s arms sit, etc… For instance, my arms sit forward so a suit jacket’s fabric will bunch over my upper chest if its sleeves aren’t right for my frame. So no matter what, fit is key. A $5,000 suit can make you look like a joker if it’s just a few inches off in a few different directions. When buying go for fit, and know the cost and possibilities of alterations.”

About the Author:

Carlos is a cigar lover living out in Portland Oregon. After first joining Bespoke Unit back in 2014 and taking a hiatus to get established in his career as an airline pilot, Carlos is back to review cigars. While not flying Carlos enjoys collecting fuzz guitar pedals, Japanese watches, and watching horror movies with his wife and cat.

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