This article includes some tips and tricks for tall men to accentuate their positives and mitigate their negatives in their clothing. We will keep the discussion to thinner tall men, as taller men who are heavier have different guidelines.
Not sure if you’d describe yourself as “tall and thin?” Please peruse our high-level guide which covers nine different body types, two body type “modifications (“athletic” and “irregular”), and the methodology with which we created them all. From there you’ll be able to determine your true body type and be quickly directed to its corresponding article.
If you’re here because the word “beanpole” has been used to describe you, read on for some useful tips on how to dress your best!
The “Tall & Thin” Male Body Type
- 5’11” or taller
- Slender build
- Flat stomach, thin limbs
Tall guys have it all, right? Studies show that they tend to get paid more than short men for the same work, and anecdotal evidence tells us that women often have a thing for tall guys. In fact, the average height of American presidents since 1900 has been just over 5’11”. Tall guys live the good life, right?
In a lot of ways yes, but when it comes to clothing, there are certain challenges that only tall men endure.
Mike once had a client who was 6’9″ (205.74 cm) tall and clocked in at barely 200 pounds. Total beanpole. One of his main concerns was that he always came off as freakishly tall. He spent his formative years hunched over in an effort to make himself seem shorter, the poor guy. There was even one time when we ran into each other waiting for the subway and a couple of teenagers remarked -audibly and accurately- that he was taller than the subway train itself.
It didn’t matter that this guy could dunk on basically whomever he wanted, he was self-conscious about his height. How could we make him look his best?
How Tall, Thin Men Should Dress
As a rule, you want to break up height wherever you can. Just as a short man will never actually look tall, a tall man will never actually look short. All you can do is appear to be not so tall. The way that you can do this is to break up your height.
Use as many horizontal elements as possible and avoiding as many vertical elements as possible.
Basically, dress the opposite of a short man.
Jackets
- Typical jacket size: 38″-42″, often in “long” ready-to-wear lengths
Whenever possible, wear odd jackets and trousers instead of suits. This will break up the vertical line from shoe to chin. 6×2 double-breasted coats will serve you very well, as they add a horizontal element to your outfit. If you’re not a fan of DB’s, stick to two-button jackets with a somewhat lower button stance. This will draw the eye downward.
Although skinny lapels are in, they’ll make you look thinner, which will make you look taller. Opt for a more classic width in your lapel, which is generally about 3 1/8″. If you can find a jacket with a lower gorge, all the better to draw the eye downward.
Taller men can afford a bit of extra length in their jackets. To be clear, we are not talking about zoot suit-length coats here. Find the happy medium between the bottom of your rear end and the second knuckle of your thumb, the latter of which will probably hang down further due to your arm length.
Details like ticket pockets and sleeve cuffs will break your height up as well. Opt for these if your lifestyle and personal sartorial sense allow.
Trousers
- Typical waist size: 32″-34″
- Typical inseam: 32″-36″
Wear cuffed trousers (see picture above). Cuffs add another horizontal element that interrupts your verticality. Even if you’re wearing flat-front trousers, cuffs will allow you to break the “plain fronts/plain bottoms” rule in a fun, fashionable way.
You can wear your trousers a bit below your natural waist. This will shorten your leg line a bit and make you appear not distractingly tall.
Neckties
A wider necktie will reduce slimness and thus add width to your frame. We are not talking about 4″ bib ties from the 1970’s, but rather a tie that’s between 3″-3.5.”
Patterns
Tall, slim men should wear big, bold patterns. Windowpanes, for example, are fantastic for tall guys because of the horizontal element that they add. Plaids and checks should be larger in scale so as to add bulk to your frame; tweeds and heavy wools will help in this regard too. The jacket pictured below hits the nail on the head:
It is unadvisable to wear pinstripes, but if you insist on doing so, make sure that they are spaced at least 3/4″ apart. The extra-wide stripes will help to offset the additional height their verticality will lend you.
Avoid small-scale patterns on outerwear like blazers and sport coats. These on top of a tall frame will have too much ground to cover, so to speak, and thus could be dizzying to the viewer.
Braces Versus Belts
- Typical belt size: 34″-36″
Here, we do the complete opposite of the short man. Because you want to break up your height, a belt is an invaluable tool. Braces are quite dandy, but having two more vertical lines when you’re already quite vertical yourself isn’t going to help you at all. Stick with a belt.
Shoes
- Typical size: 10D-13D (9-12 in U.K. sizing)
Your best bet is to wear shoes with a rounded taper as opposed to a more drastic one. The former will not add any additional length to your presentation, while the latter while increase your lank. See the picture below: though both are nice, the left toe shape is what you want to avoid, whereas the right is what you want to wear.
Tall & Thin Build Celebrities
Closing Thoughts On Tall, Thin Men
If you’re a guy who’s super tall and slim, there’s a very good chance you will be best served by having clothes made specifically for you. While this is perhaps a bit more of a financial outlay at the beginning, acquiring clothes in such a method will result in you having a wardrobe that fits as best as possible, amplifying your good physical qualities while minimizing the less-than-ideal ones.
Remember that an important aspect of dressing well is a visual sleight of hand in which you accentuate your positive attributes while mitigating your negative ones. Follow the above guidelines, tall guys, and you’ll come off as a very dapper Jack as opposed to the beanstalk itself.
To get yourself even better-covered, we strongly encourage you to read our article on irregularities in the male body to fully flesh out your wardrobe. If you’re slim but muscular, our article on the athletic build will also prove helpful.
Great guide, much appreciated being 6′-2″ and 155 pounds.
How about calk stripes?
Will ask for others, how about track stripes?
Thanks.
Dear Adriel,
Thanks for the kind words.
As you’re a slight guy I’d favor a stripe that is broad but not too overpowering re width of the chalk. I’m 6ft 3″ but 300lbs so think I’d be the same re stripe width, but can maybe get away with a thicker chalk.
Again you can do anything you are confident in, but the idea of dressing for your frame WRT fabric choices is the add visual elements to complement your frame. For you to maybe add the appearance of bulk, and for me to look slimming.
Not 100% what track stripe means you you (maybe share a link), but from what I think it is should work. Again broad width in pattern.
Cheers – Paul
Paul,
You are welcome, well deserved. And thank you for the reply.
Here is the example of the suit on my wish list: https://d49ohm0ne1s0e.cloudfront.net/modules/eshop3/products/images/21/image_626_2021_original.jpg. It’s an Alfred Brown fabric, BTW.
Interesting how big and tall benefit from a wider stripe. My Brother believe it or not is 6′-2″ and about 350 pounds (very wide shoulders so a 58 fits the shoulders but not the 56 chest), favors window panes, never pictured him in a chalk stripe.
Since I have no need for a lot of suits and just starting out, rather have a few that flatter my body. I bought a Brooks Brothers 1818 in charcoal that is a dark grey (so subtle) track stripe 5/8″ apart just before reading this, apparently dodged a calamity.
My understanding of a track stripe is two pin stripes spaced one pin stripe width apart, so three times the width of a pin. Not a lot of examples out there, this one is much wider: https://hstockton.com/products/ring-jkt-58902-2-charcoal-track-stripe-mod-253.
Cheers to you too,
Adriel
Dear Adriel,
Yes that’s a mice fabric. Again as the page says for you tall slim guys, sometimes you want to break up the vertical nature (especially pinstripes) of your ensembles with some horizontal lines and width, so if going custom with the fabric maybe get a DB jacket and cuffed trousers.
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Yes as for your brother, like me we don’t want patterns on a small sale. We cover a lot a fabric “ground” so smaller patterns can draw attention to this girth and be overwhelming to the eyes. Bigger format windowpanes, and pins can assist us being more in proportion.
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The track stripe you share is quite subtle, and not a BIG statement like a large fuzzy chalk lines. So again not too much of an issue. If you’re starting out, maybe consider some classics and build a capsule wardrobe, so you can break up suits (which will do you a favor, re more breaks in the up down nature of your physique) and get lots of options from a limited number of suits, jackets and blazers. See here: https://bespokeunit.com/suits/capsule-wardrobe/ and maybe here also: https://bespokeunit.com/style/how-to-build-a-wardrobe/
I have over 40 suits, tuxedos, and sports coats / blazers so sometimes I can go “against” the rules given in theses guides, as they are only suggestions and starting points. We want guys to be in the know, so they can make the best decisions for their own need, budgets and sartorial orentation.
Hope that helps – Paul
Why is 5 foot 11 included with being tall? I wouldn’t consider a male as tall until at least 6 foot 2…
It depends on your perspective! I’m 5’8″ and those additional three inches make all the difference!
Hello Gentlemen.
Hope this message finds you both well and safe.
Recently I re-read an article on dressing while keeping in mind proportions, and re-watched a video of dressing tips for the tall and thin fellow, and this tall and thin page, where you are somewhat recommending wearing a longer than natural rise for those that are taller and/or at least wearing odd trousers, suit pants, or tuxedo pants lower than the natural waist, in order to help even them out.This is and was something that I had been doing out of necessity, for a long time already, so I thought it was neat to see the suggestion.
In general, I am wondering just how much below the natural waist you would find reasonable and/or recommend and hoe long is too long of an extra or additional rise in your opinion, an inch, two inches, three inches, or more? Or have any of the tailors and menswear companies you have dealt with concurred with the recommendation to wear a longer rise than required and lower the waist the pants are worn at? And how much would you factor overall build and proportion in to this scenario (i.e torso versus legs)? Just curious.
Thank you for taking the time to read my long-winded message.
Stay safe and stay awesome.
Gerry :)