Elsewhere on Bespoke Unit, we’ve covered formality in detail, including guides on tuxedos and dress codes. However, these pages focus little on shoes.
This page aims to address all the gaps in the various formality levels of shoes, both on our own website and the rest of the web.
Here, you will find various shoe styles ranked from formal to informal. As a preemptive rule of thumb, in the context of clothing and shoes, formality is typically a function of simplicity and a lack of bulk.
But why is a classic Oxford shoe more formal than a Derby? And where do Monkstraps or Loafers fit in? This guide provides the definitive conceptual framework and a complete formality scale to map every shoe style to the right occasion.
The Bespoke Unit Shoe Formality Scale
The following scale replaces vague categories with a clear, ranked hierarchy. This chart integrates shoes and boots to provide a single, definitive reference.
| Formality Rating (10-1) | Shoe Style | Key Characteristics | Best For (Dress Code) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 10 (Most Formal) | Opera Pump | Black patent leather, essentially slippers with a grosgrain bow. The last vestige of court dress. | White Tie, Black Tie |
| 9 | Oxford (Black Patent) | Closed-lacing system with a high-shine patent finish. Plain or cap-toe. | Black Tie |
| 8 | Oxford (Black Calfskin) | The workhorse of men’s dress shoes. Closed-lacing, minimal bulk, plain or cap-toe. | Business Formal, Cocktail |
| 7 | Wholecut | Crafted from a single, unadorned piece of leather. Extremely sleek but slightly less formal than a cap-toe Oxford. | Business Formal, Cocktail |
| 7 | Chelsea Boot | Ankle-height, pull-on boots. A slim, black leather version is streamlined enough for suits in cold weather. | Business Formal, Business Casual |
| 6 | Monkstrap (Single/Double) | Fastens with buckles instead of laces. More formal than a Derby but less formal than an Oxford. | Business Formal, Business Casual |
| 5 | Derby (Blucher) | Open-lacing system which makes the shoe bulkier and thus more casual. | Business Casual, Smart Casual |
| 5 | Brogue (as decoration) | Perforations applied to an Oxford or Derby: the more brogueing, the more casual the shoe. | Business Casual, Smart Casual |
| 5 | Chukka Boot | Ankle-height boot with two or three eyelets. A dark suede version is a business casual staple. | Business Casual, Smart Casual |
| 4 | Loafer (Venetian, Penny, Tassel, Bit) | Slip-on moccasin styles. Defined by their decoration: unadorned (Venetian), a “saddle” (Penny), or metal (Bit). | Business Casual, Smart Casual |
| 3 | Driving Shoe | Moccasins with rubber “Gommino” nubs for a sole, designed for pedal grip. | Casual, Summer Casual |
| 3 | Desert Boot | A specific type of Chukka boot defined by its casual crepe sole. | Casual |
| 2 | Boat Shoe | Moccasin-style with a non-marking siped rubber sole, originally for boat decks. | Casual, Summer Casual |
| 1 (Least Formal) | Sneaker | Athletic-inspired shoes. Minimalist white leather versions can work for “Smart Casual”. | Casual |
| 1 | Espadrille / Sandal | Espadrilles have canvas uppers and a rope sole. Flip-flops are for beachwear only. | Casual, Beachwear |
The 4 Pillars of Shoe Formality
Before we get to the scale, it’s crucial to understand the principles that dictate a shoe’s formality.
Pillar 1: Structure & Lacing
The single most important factor in men’s shoe formality is the lacing system:
- Closed Lacing (Most Formal): On an Oxford (or “Balmoral”), the lacing section is sewn under the vamp (the front part of the shoe), creating a sleek, clean, and “closed” throat. This minimalism makes it the most formal option, required for business suits and evening wear.
- Open Lacing (Less Formal): On a Derby (or “Blucher”), the lacing sections (quarters) are sewn on top of the vamp. This “open” throat construction is bulkier, provides more room, and is thus considered more casual.
Oxford (Closed Laces) vs Derby (Open Laces)
For a visual breakdown of “closed-throat” vs. “open-throat” systems, see our complete guide to Shoe Anatomy.
Pillar 2: Material & Color
After structure, the material and its color are the next most important factors. The hierarchy is based on texture and shine.
Material (Most to Least Formal):
- Patent Leather: A high-shine, plasticky finish reserved almost exclusively for Black Tie and White Tie.
- Smooth Calfskin: The standard for high-quality business and dress shoes.
- Suede/Nubuck: A napped, textured finish that is inherently more casual.
- Canvas/Other Textiles: The most casual materials.
Color (Most to Least Formal):
- Black: Black is the most formal color for shoes. The only classic option for tuxedos and very commonly seen on business suits, black shoes are ubiquitous.
- Dark Brown: Arguably just as dressy as black but offering superior style, dark brown shoes are one rung down the formality scale from black (it’s not appropriate to wear dark brown with a tux).
- Cordovan (Color): Both a material and a color, cordovan refers to a brownish burgundy shoe color. They pair with anything dark brown shoes pair with but are a touch less formal due to their lighter shade.
Cordovan (Color) Boots
- Navy Blue: Although rare, navy blue as a shoe color is relatively dressy due to its dark hue.
- Charcoal Grey: Another rare shoe color, dark grey shoes sit on the same rung of the formality ladder as navy.
- Medium Brown: Medium brown shoes are extremely versatile and pair with just about any pair of trousers you can think of. They’re relatively informal due to the lightness of color.
- Tan: Even in the dressiest silhouettes, tan shoes have an air of casualness about them. These should only be worn in the spring and summer months.
- White: Technically only appropriate from Memorial Day to Labor Day, white shoes are very informal and should be worn only in the most casual situations.
- Non-standard colors (red, green, purple, etc.): Other shoe colors, such as red, purple, green, or orange, are the least formal options available on the market.
Pillar 3: Profile & Sole
The shoe’s silhouette, or “last,” and its sole are critical. A slim, sleek profile is always more formal than a bulky one.
Soles (Most to Least Formal):
- Slim Leather Sole: The most formal option, standard on high-end dress shoes.
- Double Leather Sole: A thicker, “country” sole that adds bulk and reduces formality.
Tricker’s “Country” Shoes
- Rubber “Gommino” Sole: The pebbled sole found on driving shoes, designed for comfort and casual wear.
- Crepe Sole: A casual, natural rubber sole found on Desert Boots.
- Vulcanized/Athletic Sole: The least formal, found on sneakers.
A shoe’s sole is determined by its build. To understand why a Goodyear Welted shoe differs from a Blake Stitched one, explore our guide to Shoe Construction Methods.
Pillar 4: Decoration
This is the simplest rule: decoration decreases formality.
A common mistake is to classify a “Brogue” as a distinct style of shoe. This is incorrect. As our Ultimate Brogue Guide explains, “brogueing” refers to the decorative perforations punched into the leather.
Beckett Simonon Yates Brogues (Extensive Decorations On Upper)
The more brogueing a shoe has (from a simple Quarter-Brogue Cap-Toe to a heavily perforated Full-Brogue “Wingtip”), the less formal it becomes.
These holes were originally functional, designed to drain water from shoes in wet Irish bogs, making them a “country” or casual feature. In the modern day, they are exclsuively aesthetic.
Practical Application: Men’s Dress Code & Shoe Pairing Matrix
This chart answers the most common question: “What shoes do I wear for this event?” This is your definitive guide to matching your footwear to the dress code.
| Dress Code | Primary Shoe Choice (Required) | Secondary Shoe Choice (Acceptable) | Bespoke Unit’s Relevant Guide |
|---|---|---|---|
| White Tie | Black Patent Leather Opera Pump | Black Patent Leather Oxford | Man’s Guide To White Tie Dress Code |
| Black Tie | Black Patent Leather Oxford | Black Patent Leather Loafer; Opera Pump | Ultimate Guide To The Black Tie Dress Code |
| Black Tie Optional | Black Calfskin Oxford (High Polish) | Dark Brown Oxford; Black Monkstra | Dress Code Guide For Black Tie Optional |
| Cocktail Attire | Dark Brown or Black Oxford / Monkstrap | Sleek Loafer (Venetian, Bit, Tassel) | The 10 Best Dress Shoe Brands |
| Business Formal | Black or Dark Brown Calfskin Oxford | Cap-Toe Brogue; Single/Double Monkstrap | The 8 Most Comfortable Dress Shoes |
| Business Casual | Loafer (Penny, Tassel); Derby/Blucher | Chukka Boot; Dress Sneaker (Modern) | The 8 Best Business Casual Shoes |
| Smart Casual | Loafer; Dress Sneaker; Derby | Driving Shoe; Boat Shoe | The Best Dress Sneakers For Men |
| Casual | Driving Shoe; Boat Shoe; Leather Sneaker | Espadrille; Sandals (Flip-Flops) | The 10 Best Men’s Driving Shoes |
Frequently Asked Questions
What shoes are appropriate for a “Black Tie Optional” event?
While black patent leather shoes are the most formal choice, “Black Tie Optional” gives you flexibility.
A highly polished black calfskin Oxford is an excellent and appropriate choice. Dark brown Oxfords or sleek black monkstraps can also be acceptable in this context, but you should avoid anything less formal.
What is the difference between “Business Formal” and “Business Casual” shoes?
Business Formal requires your most professional footwear, typically black or dark brown leather Oxfords.
Business Casual is a more relaxed dress code, allowing for a wider range of styles, such as loafers, derbys, Monkstraps, Chukka Boots, and even minimalist dress sneakers.
Can I wear boots with a suit?
Yes, but formality is key.
A slim, streamlined Chelsea Boot in black or dark brown leather can be paired with a suit, especially in cold weather. A Chukka boot in dark suede can also work well with more casual suits (e.g., flannel or tweed), but it is generally better suited for business casual attire.
Conclusion
A shoe’s formality is dictated not by just one of the aspects mentioned above, but by considering them all simultaneously. The whole is truly greater than the sum of its parts.
We hope you found this guide helpful. To learn more about the specific models and styles mentioned, explore our Ultimate Shoe Style Guide or see all of our Expert-Tested Shoe Reviews. As always, if you have any specific questions, feel free to drop them in the comments below.
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