The Ultimate Guide To Shoe Construction

If you’re curious about a particular construction method or other topic, you can quickly jump to it by clicking one of the following links:

• Importance Of Shoe Construction
• Shoe Construction Types
  • Goodyear Welt
  • Hand-Welting
  • Blake Stitch
  • Blake-Rapid
  • Norwegian (Storm) Welt
  • Stitchdown / Veldtschoen
  • Bologna Construction
  • Cement Construction
  • Genuine Handsewn
• Goodyear Welt Vs Blake Stitch: What’s Better?
• How To Know The Best Shoe Construction For Your Needs

Importance Of Shoe Construction

Buying shoes that are well-constructed is important for two main reasons:

1. Well-made shoes tend to be more comfortable, and
2. They are easy for a cobbler to resole, re-heel, and otherwise work on to increase their lifespan

First, a quick bit of terminology to get us all on the same page:

• Upper: The part of a shoe that’s attached to the sole. Covers the top and sides of the feet; the uppermost part of a shoe.
• Insole: Part of the shoe that makes contact with the sole of your foot. The bottom of the inside of the shoe.
• Outsole: Commonly referred to as the “sole,” this makes contact with the ground and needs to be replaced every once in a while.
• Welt: Strip of leather that runs along the perimeter of the outsole & rests between the outsole and the insole; not present in all shoes
• Last: The wooden form on which a shoe is shaped. Also refers to the basic shape or silhouette of a shoe.

Shoe Construction Types

Goodyear Welt Construction

Goodyear-welted shoes are widely considered to be the best constructed around. They’re the oldest and most labor-intensive construction method in existence.

They’re constructed in such a way that any cobbler can resole this shoe repeatedly, and they’re incredibly durable. Usually made with double soles with outsoles that jut out from the upper, this construction method is widely utilized in British footwear in particular.

Like all shoes, Goodyear-welted shoes were originally made by hand. Charles Goodyear, Jr. invented the machine to welt these shoes in 1869, which is where the name comes from.

The Construction Process

Though there are multiple steps throughout the whole process, the main three are as follows:

1. Prepare the insole for stitching. The cordwainer creates a “rib” that runs across the insole. Some makers cut and sculpt the insole, and others use a different material like linen tape. The purpose of the rib is to house the thread in a later step.
2. Attach the outsole and insole to the last.
3. Welt: Shoe-specific thread is sewn through the welt, upper, and insole rib. The welt is then attached to the outsole through a second, separate stitch. A lockstitch is used for both of these stitches, which prevents unraveling if it wears out at any point in the shoe.

Pros: The upper is attached to the welt via one stitch, whereas the outsole is attached to the welt via a second separate stitch. Incredibly easy to resole repeatedly as a result, this extends the life of the shoes for years and years. The extra layers help with water resistance and support.

Cons: Some flexibility is lost with all these layers. Also, because the process is labor-intensive, Goodyear welted shoes are often more expensive than other types.

Hand-Welting: The Artisanal Method

Hand-welting is the original, more labor-intensive ancestor of the Goodyear welt.

The key difference is that instead of gluing a canvas rib to the insole, a master craftsman meticulously carves a channel, or “holdfast,” directly into a thicker, higher-quality leather insole.

The welt is then stitched by hand into this integrated leather holdfast. This creates an incredibly strong bond without adhesives, resulting in a more refined and durable shoe often found in bespoke and high-end footwear.

Blake Stitch (The McKay Method)

The machine for Blake construction was invented in 1856 by Lyman Reed Blake. He later sold the patent to Gordon McKay, hence the alternate name.

Another child of the Industrial Revolution, it’s often referred to as a “Blake Stitch” and is less labor-intensive than Goodyear welting.

This is very common on Italian shoes, which rely on the sleekness that this type of construction provides.

The Construction Process

The process is relatively simple: The upper is wrapped around the insole and these two parts are stitched to the sole. A single stitch attaches everything. No intermediate layers, no double stitches.

Pros: Less expensive than a Goodyear welted shoe but can still be resoled. Also more flexible and lightweight than Goodyear due to that absence of the welt layer. Also great for shoes that require a close-cut sole that’s flush with the upper because there are no exterior stitches.

Cons: Soles are less waterproof because the stitching allows water to seep in and the thinness of the sole wicks water into the shoe. A rubber sole would eliminate this issue, however.

Blake-Rapid Construction

Blake-Rapid construction for shoes is a hybrid of Blake and Goodyear constructions. It adds the mid-layer welt found in Goodyear welt construction but keeps the Blake-stitching technique. This is typically seen on bulkier, more rugged shoes.

Pros: More water-resistant and durable than Blake stitched shoes, less expensive than Goodyear welts.

Cons: Less flexible than Blake stitched shoes, not as well-constructed as Goodyear welted shoes.

Norwegian (Storm Welt)

Also known as shoes with a “storm welt” or a “waterproof welt,” the Norwegian method is typically used on snow boots and ski boots that need to be as waterproof as possible. It is similar to a Goodyear welt in many ways.

Unlike a Goodyear welt, the Norwegian welt is completely exterior. The stitching that holds together the upper, welt, and insole is visible on the outside of the shoe. This prevents water from entering the shoe at the seam between the upper and the welt.

Pros: Waterproofs your soles, great for rainy and snowy conditions.

Cons: Bulky, not particularly common.

Stitchdown / Veldtschoen Construction

Stitchdown construction is renowned for its durability and is a hallmark of high-quality work and service boots.

In this method, the leather of the upper is turned outward and stitched directly to the midsole and outsole, creating a visible “flange” around the base of the shoe. This creates a highly water-resistant and robust shoe. Veldtschoen is a variation of this method that is even more water-resistant.

Pros: Very durable and highly water-resistant due to the outward-turned upper.

Cons: Can be stiff initially and requires a specialist for resoling.

Bologna Construction

This looks very similar to Blake construction. It is used for shoes with flexible soles, such as moccasins with a simple design.

Basically, the leather upper is wrapped around the bottom and sewn up. At this point, the sole is sewn directly to the upper.

The value add? Your foot only comes into contact with soft leather.

Pros: Comfortable, easy to make.

Cons: Not waterproof, less durable than Blake or Goodyear methods.

Cement Construction

Cement construction is to the shoe world what fused canvas is to the suit world.

The upper is simply attached to the sole via an adhesive, and no welt is used. A product of the Industrial Revolution, it’s cheap and fast. It’s also an incredibly common way to attach an upper to a sole.

Pros: Inexpensive, fast construction translates to cost savings for the consumer. Excellent for sneakers, bucks, and other rubber-soled shoes.

Cons: Can wear out very quickly and can’t be resoled. Once they’ve worn through, they must be replaced.

Genuine Handsewn

Many higher-end moccasins utilize “genuine handsewn on the last” construction. It’s widely recognized as a way to craft an extremely comfortable pair of shoes.

Genuine handsewn uppers are shaped and fitted to a last with simple tools and then sewn and tacked together by hand on that last. This creates an upper that is incredibly comfortable and flexible.

Pros: Comfortable and flexible.

Cons: Somewhat uncommon due to the highly specialized nature of its construction, expensive, limited to moccasins.

Goodyear Welt vs. Blake Construction

Which of these methods is superior? If only answering this question could be so simple!

An easy but not-entirely-accurate way to answer this would be “Goodyear is better.”

In a lot of ways this makes sense. It’s a more robust construction technique that allows for more resoling and an even more extended lifespan than a Blake-stitched shoe would have. Sure, they’re more expensive, but the value add outweighs the additional cost.

Still, it would be disingenuous to say that one construction method is superior to the other for all applications, all of the time.

Fashion-forward, lightweight Italian shoes would lose their character entirely if Goodyear welted. Slim, pointy monkstraps or tassel loafers needn’t have the double-thick soles that most Goodyear welted shoes do, and there’s value in wearing lightweight shoes as well.

It’s safe to say that a guy can use 3-4 Goodyear welted shoes in his closet as his workhorses: black oxfords, brown brogues, that sort of thing. Your lightweight shoes that you need a bit more flexibility from, on the other hand, can utilize Blake construction guilt-free.

Conclusion: What Shoe Constructions Are Best For Me?

Each construction method has its own pluses and minuses, so the answer depends on your sartorial needs and your budget.

If you wear dress shoes five days a week, you’ll want most of your shoes to be Goodyear welted. They will be put through the ringer whether you intend to or not, and you’ll see value very quickly after you’ve had them resoled a few times.

If you tend to dress casually but still in an elevated way, Blake-stitched shoes will probably do the trick for you.

The best thing to do is to buy shoes that fill your sartorial needs regardless of their construction, and then see what works best for you over time. No two men are identical in this regard, and you owe it to yourself to have some fun with different shoes.

For more information on how to properly care for your shoes regardless of how they’ve been made, see our shoe care guide. You can also visit our main page on men’s shoes where we cover everything you’ve ever wanted to know about footwear.