There is no one shoe style that can be classified as a “brogue.” Rather, the term refers to a large family of shoes with a rich Celtic heritage. Originally designed as a walking shoe for covering marshland, brogues have grown to become one of the most elegant shoe styles cherished by many discerning gentlemen.
The most common type of brogue is the wingtip, which features decorative perforations along the toe cap and sides of the shoe. You’ve surely encountered these in the past. However, on this page, we’ll be highlighting many of the other styles as well.
Additionally, we’ve listed some of the best brogue styles that can be purchased on Zappos. Given their aggressive pricing, regular markdowns, and generous shipping & return policies, we’ve found ourselves regularly visiting the online retailer when searching for our next pair.
The Best Brogues On Zappos?
The following menu will allow you to navigate between each of the top brogue styles we’ve picked. Otherwise, continue scrolling to read this guide in its entirety.
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What Are Brogues?
A brogue is any shoe that has perforations in the leather.
“Brogue” is the modern-day English spelling of the Gaelic word “bròg,” which translates to “shoe.” Centuries ago, brogues were worn by Scottish and Irish peasants, and the holes (known as “broguing” or perforations) were functional, existing to allow the shoes to drain water after crossing a river or marsh.
They were made of untanned leather, had no heels, and often had fur attached.
Nowadays, the only similarity is the presence of the perforations, which are purely aesthetic. The perforations are often surrounded by “pinking” which is leather cut in a repeating “V” pattern. While very common, pinking isn’t a prerequisite for a brogue to be defined as such.
The Different Decorations
These are technical terms that you need to understand to have a discussion about brogues:
- Pinking: Cuts in a material that make the finished edge look like a series of triangles next to each other. In tailoring, the tool used to achieve this is called a set of pinking shears.
- Perforations: Holes in shoe leather. In modern brogues, the holes do not puncture all the way through the material.
- Medallion: The decorative set of perforations on the toe of certain brogues.
Here’s an easy-to-understand visual representation:
The Types Of Brogue Styles
A fully comprehensive list of every style brogue ever made is beyond the scope of any one article. Broguing is an aesthetic detail as opposed to a structural one, so it’s seen on a wide variety of shoes and in countless style permutations. While very common on lace-ups (you’ll see both bluchers and oxfords in the graphics below), broguing is also found on monk straps, boots, and even sneakers.
Full Brogue
Full brogues are what most of us think of when we hear the terms “brogue” or “wingtip.” It has a medallion at the toe, broguing arranged in a wingtip pattern, and more perforations around the quarters, throat, and heel counter.
Semi-Brogue
Also known as a half-brogue, a semi brogue has a perforated and pinked cap-toe detail along with a medallion at the toe.
Quarter Brogue
Technically more formal than a semi-brogue, the quarter brogue is basically a cap toe in which the cap has perforations. There’s no medallion on the toe.
Austerity Brogue
We like to call this a “wingtip” because there’s technically no broguing. This is simply a shoe on whose toe there’s stitching arranged in the shape of a bird’s wings.
Blind Brogue
A blind brogue is an otherwise full brogue that has no medallion at the toe.
Longwing
This is another type of full brogue that’s so popular, it deserves its own space. The perforations are arranged in such a way that we still have a wing pattern on the toe, but they span the full sides of the shoe and meet at the heel counter in the back. Florsheim is a popular maker of this model in the States.
How To Wear Brogues
The most important aesthetic element to keep in mind with a brogue is proportion. Models from classic British makers are often heavier and chunkier than your average dress shoe and thus look better with heavy fabrics like flannel, tweed, and denim. Think country suits or odd jackets and trousers. Boot versions play particularly nicely with these fabrics.
There’s a fair amount of debate as to whether brogues are appropriate with worsted suiting. A good rule of thumb is that there’s an inverse proportional relationship between ornamentation and formality.
Full brogues are less formal than semi-brogues, which are less formal than quarter brogues. The only exception to this rule is the Ghillie brogue, which is considered formal evening footwear in Scotland.
Use your best judgment on a case-by-case basis, but we feel that slimmer models pair perfectly well with worsted suits, regardless of the level of broguing.
In black or dark brown leather, they’re dressy enough for any business scenario and muted enough even for a funeral. In dark-colored suede, they’re smart enough to wear with a worsted suit and stylish enough for jeans. In a light-colored leather or suede, they’re perfect for summertime wear with chinos and other casual trousers.
- Sneaker: Jeans, shorts
- Light-colored suede: chinos, light jeans, casual trousers
- Dark suede or leather: heavy fabrics like tweed, flannel, and denim.
- Ghillie: Highland Dress (traditional Scottish formal evening wear)
Our Last Word On Brogues
When building a shoe collection, it’s important to cover all your basics first and branch out from there. Brogues offer a unique opportunity to hit both of those categories.
For most men, a pair of brogues makes sense as a third shoe, right after you’ve acquired a basic black oxford and brown derby. It also makes sense as a tenth shoe, when you pick up a pair of ankle-height semi-brogue boots to round out your budding collection.
No matter where they fall in your rotation, brogues will offer you permanent style.
- Color: Varied
- Material: Calfskin Leather
- Pricing: $395 [Buy On Zappos]
One of Allen Edmonds’ finest creations, the Strand brogues are a high-quality USA-made pair of shoes that feature premium leather uppers and breathable leather linings for comfort. They’re also made with a Goodyear welt, which will provide you with water resistance for those rainy days.
- Color: Brown
- Material: Leather
- Pricing: $195 [Buy On Zappos]
Cole Haan’s Zerogrand brogues meld the classic brogue shoe style with top-of-the-line comfort imparted by the brand’s trademark, sports-inspired rubber outsoles. Decorated with full brogue details, these leather brogues are perhaps the ideal shoe for business casual office settings, however, they’re just as appropriate for the after-work meeting or dinner.
- Colors: Chocolate
- Material: Suede
- Pricing: $250 [Buy On Zappos]
Brogue shoes wear a suede “coat” perhaps better than any other style of men’s shoe. With the ECCO Vitrus I, the suede employed is a buttery-soft Chocolate tone that matches perfectly with the leather welt. Not just visually appealing but also designed for comfort, the Vitrus I possess molded inlays in the sole as well as a layer of cork and the brand’s anatomical last which complements the curvature of the foot.
- Colors: Black, Tan
- Material: Italian Full Grain Calfskin
- Pricing: $168.95 [Buy On Zappos]
J&M’s Conards provide an accessible yet premium version of the classic men’s brogue shoe. With jet black, hand-burnished leather uppers, Boldwelt sole construction, and a stacked heel, they clearly do not skimp on the traditional style. However, the typical design is enhanced with breathable leather linings, rubber outsoles, and a cushioned footbed ensure you can wear (and enjoy) the brogue look even if you’re on your feet all day.
- Color: Walnut Nevada
- Material: Calfskin Leather
- Pricing: $995 [Buy On Zappos]
When it comes to the most high-end pair of brogues to be found online, the Church’s Diplomat 173 is the perfect option for those who will only settle for the best.
Made with the brand’s 173 last, the Diplotmats have classic brogue details in the cap-toe as well as the throat and heel of the shoe. Crafted in England with a premium leather upper in the unique Walnut Nevada tone, these are further augmented by the leather lining and Goodyear welt construction that is now understood to be a sign of quality and durability.
- Colors: Black, Mahogany, Tan
- Material: Full Grain Leather
- Pricing: $198.95 [Buy On Zappos]
For those more partial to boots, you’ll be glad to learn that the brogue style is not reserved just for traditional shoes; indeed, it can be properly and handsomely employed on a pair of boots as encountered here on the Johnston & Murphy Cody boots.
Offered in black, tan, and mahogany colors, the Cody brogue boots are also marked by open throat laces, hand-burnished leather uppers, a cushioned footbed, and tough rubber outsoles. The final detail sealing this dressy-yet-rugged pair of brogue boots is the contrast stitching in the welt which leaves a reminder that while these may look bulky enough for hiking, they’re still classy enough to be worn with a suit & blazer or formal trousers.
What Next?
Now that you have learned about brogues and some of the best styles for sale on Zappos, feel free to peruse some related footwear guides for men: