The Ultimate Brogue Shoe Guide: Expert-Tested Best Picks (2025)

The Definitive Brogue Guide

Understanding brogues is simple once you learn to identify their two main components: the type of decoration and the type of lacing.

Brogues vs. Oxfords vs. Derbies: What’s the Difference?

This is the most critical concept to grasp:

• An Oxford is a shoe style defined by a closed lacing system, where the eyestay facings are stitched underneath the vamp. This is more formal.
• A Derby is a shoe style defined by an open lacing system, where the eyestay facings are stitched on top of the vamp. This is less formal.
• Brogueing is the decoration (the perforations) applied to a shoe.

Therefore, a shoe can be an Oxford Brogue (a formal shoe with decorative perforations) or a Derby Brogue (a less formal shoe with decorative perforations).

The terms are not mutually exclusive. An Oxford/Derby defines the shoe’s construction, while a brogue defines its decoration. For more detail on these parts, see our complete guide to shoe anatomy.

Pinking, Perforations, & Medallions

These are technical terms that you need to understand to have a discussion about brogues:

• Pinking: Cuts in a material that make the finished edge look like a series of triangles next to each other. In tailoring, the tool used to achieve this is called a set of pinking shears.
• Perforations: Holes in shoe leather. In modern brogues, the holes do not puncture all the way through the material.
• Medallion: The decorative set of perforations on the toe of certain brogues.

Here’s an easy-to-understand visual representation:

The Types of Brogues, Explained

A fully comprehensive list of every style brogue ever made is beyond the scope of any one article. Due to this, we’ll only cover the most common ones on this page.

Broguing is an aesthetic detail, rather than a structural one, so it’s seen on a wide variety of shoes and in countless style permutations. While very common on lace-ups (you’ll see both bluchers and oxfords in the graphics below), broguing is also found on monk straps, boots, and even sneakers.

Full Brogue (Wingtips)

This is the most iconic and least formal brogue.

It’s characterized by a “W” shaped, pointed toe cap with extensions (the “wings”) that run along the sides of the shoe. It always features a decorative perforation pattern (a “medallion”) in the center of the toe.

Semi-Brogue (Half Brogue)

More formal than a Full Brogue. This style features a straight-edged toe cap (not “W” shaped) but does include a medallion in the center. It also has perforations along the toe cap seam.

Quarter Brogue

The most formal and minimalist brogue. This style features a straight-edged toe cap with perforations only along the seam.

It notably omits the medallion on the toe. This is a classic business shoe.

Longwing Brogue

A variation of the Full Brogue where the “W” wingtip extends the full length of the shoe, meeting at the heel seam. This is a bold, classic American style.

Other Popular Brogue Styles (Austerity, Blind, & Ghillie)

While the four styles above are the most common types of brogue, the following are more obscure, or rather enthusiast-level designs that you may encounter when going down the Brogue “rabbit hole”.

Austerity Brogue

This is a niche style. We like to call this a “wingtip” because there’s technically no broguing.

This is simply a shoe on whose toe there’s stitching arranged in the shape of a bird’s wings.

Blind Brogue

A blind brogue is an otherwise full brogue that has no medallion at the toe.

Ghillie Brogue

The only brogue suitable for evening wear, the Ghillie Brogue is worn as part of Highland Dress, typically paired with a kilt.

This shoe has no tongue and very long laces that end up tying just below the calf.

This type of brogue bears more resemblance to the bròg from olden days than any other style. As these are evening shoes, they should ideally be black.

The Expert-Tested Best Brogues of 2025

Now that you can identify the styles, we’re diving into our top brogue shoe recommendations for 2025 and beyond.

We tested the following brogues based on construction, fit, material quality, and long-term value, using the same methodology as in our popular guides to the Most Comfortable Dress Shoes and Best Dress Shoe Brands.

How to Style Brogues (A Practical Guide)

The Golden Rule: A good rule of thumb is that there’s an inverse proportional relationship between ornamentation and formality. Full brogues are less formal than semi-brogues, which are less formal than quarter brogues.

The other key aesthetic element is proportion. Models from classic British shoe manufacturers are often heavier and chunkier than your average dress shoe and thus look better with heavy fabrics like flannel, tweed, and denim.

Think country suits or odd jackets and trousers. Boot versions play particularly nicely with these fabrics.

With a Suit (Formal & Boardroom)

There’s a fair amount of debate as to whether brogues are appropriate with worsted suiting. We feel that slimmer models pair perfectly well with worsted suits, regardless of the level of broguing.

That said, this is where the Quarter Brogue and Semi-Brogue truly shine. In black or dark brown leather, they’re dressy enough for any business scenario and muted enough even for a funeral.

A black Quarter-Brogue Oxford is a perfectly acceptable business professional shoe. A dark brown or oxblood Semi-Brogue (like the Allen Edmonds Strand) pairs perfectly with a navy or grey suit.

Rule: Avoid chunky Full-Brogues (Wingtips) with formal business suits, as they are too casual.

With Business Casual (Chinos & Sport Coats)

This is the brogue’s sweet spot. All types, from Quarter-Brogues to Full-Brogues, work well here.

In a light-colored leather or suede, they’re perfect for summertime wear with chinos and other casual trousers. A brown brogue with navy chinos is a timeless, can’t-miss combination.

This pairing is a cornerstone of the modern business casual wardrobe.

With Jeans (Casual)

This is the domain of the Full-Brogue (Wingtips), Longwings, and Brogue Boots.

Brown brogues with dark-wash jeans are a sharp, classic look. Dark-colored suede brogues are also smart enough for a worsted suit but stylish enough for jeans, making them incredibly versatile.

More rugged brogues, like the Tricker’s Bourton or Grenson Archie, are ideal for this.

When To Wear Brogues By Season

Thankfully, men have the opportunity to wear this style of shoe all year round. We’ve suggested some different styles of brogue to try based on season below:

• Spring: Light brown longwings, medium brown leather semi-brogues
• Summer: White nubuck semi-brogues, beige quarter brogues
• Autumn: Burgundy lace-up boots, dark brown leather full brogues
• Winter: Chocolate suede full brogues, black quarter brogues

Brogue Dress Shoe FAQs

Icon Showdown: Allen Edmonds Strand vs. McAllister?

This is the most common enthusiast question, and it’s simple: The Strand is a Semi-Brogue (straight cap-toe with a medallion). The McAllister is a Full-Brogue (a wingtip). Both are built on the same 65-last.

Choose the Strand for more formal, conservative office wear. Choose the McAllister for a more classic, bold “power” look.

Icon Showdown: Tricker’s Bourton vs. Stow?

It’s simple: The Bourton is the shoe. The Stow is the boot. They are both definitive “country brogues,” built to be waterproof, rugged, and to last a lifetime.

Are brogues formal shoes?

It depends. A black Quarter-Brogue Oxford is a formal business shoe. A tan Full-Brogue Derby is a casual shoe. Brogues are versatile, but they are never appropriate for Black Tie or White Tie events.

What is a Longwing Brogue?

A longwing is a type of full brogue where the “wing” extends along the full length of the shoe, meeting at the heel seam. They are most often built on a Derby last. You can explore more unique shoe types in our main /styles/  guide.

How should I care for my brogues?

Care is the same as any quality leather shoe: use shoe trees, clean them regularly, and apply a quality cream polish. The only extra step is ensuring polish doesn’t get caked into the perforations. A small brush can help clear this. Proper care is essential to get the most from a Goodyear Welt or Blake Stitch construction.

How should my brogues fit?

Fit is paramount. A brogue should fit snugly at the heel and have just enough room in the toe box. As sizing varies by brand (a Tricker’s fits very differently from a Velasca), always consult our shoe size conversion guide  and the brand’s specific recommendations.

A Note On Exotic Leathers (Alligator, Ostrich, etc.)

Generally speaking, we are not fond of brogues made from exotic skins, such as alligator, ostrich, crocodile, or lizard.

Our reasoning is that these skins bring their own visual interest to the table as it is, and adding a bunch of perforations and a toe medallion would be overkill.

It’s most likely that you would only run into this issue if you were having a pair custom-made for yourself; there aren’t many exotic-skin brogues on the ready-to-wear market that we know of.

Our Last Word On Brogues

When building a shoe collection, it’s important to cover all your basics first and branch out from there. Brogues offer a unique opportunity to hit both of those categories.

For most men, a pair of brogues makes sense as a third shoe, right after you’ve acquired a basic black oxford and brown derby. It also makes sense as a tenth shoe, when you pick up a pair of ankle-height semi-brogue boots to round out your budding collection.

No matter where they fall in your rotation, brogues will offer you permanent style.

What Next?

Now that you have learned about brogues, feel free to peruse some related footwear guides for men:

• Wingtip Shoe Guide
• Derby & Blucher Shoe Guide
• Best Dress Shoes For Men
• Most Comfortable Shoes For Men
• Men’s Shoes Homepage