A Definitive Guide to Japanese Shoe Brands: From Sneakers to Bespoke Masterpieces

Part 4: The History & Soul of Japanese Shoemaking

Japanese Shoe-Making History

Until the late 19th Century, Western shoes were relatively unknown in Japan. A largely feudal society threatened by European colonization, Japan remained relatively isolated and protective of its culture.

It wasn’t until the Meiji era that the Japanese became curious about foreign fashion and dress alongside the wave of “Datsu-A Ron” Westernization.

When Japan grew into an Empire, it quickly modernized and adopted rapid industrialization. With it came railroads and land reform programs to prepare the country for extensive development. Meanwhile, 3,000 Westerners were hired to teach in the country’s new universal education system.

Needless to say, this Western influence and education would have a profound effect on Japan’s culture and heritage. General tastes began to evolve by incorporating Western values. However, Japan still managed to retain its own identity.

Textiles were one of Japan’s first industrialized sectors, shifting from a cottage industry to mechanized factories. In its early period, nearly two-thirds of yarn was imported. However, it was mostly produced domestically by the turn of the 20th Century.

Nevertheless, footwear was slow to become industrialized.

Until the 20th Century, only the elite wore imported Western shoes. Instead, the majority wore wooden Geta sandals or Zori flip-flops.

By the mid-20th Century, a domestic shoe industry began to flourish. Overall, factories operated either near Tokyo or in the northern Yamagata and Miyagi provinces.

Indeed, Blake stitching and cemented constructions were often used for affordable shoes. However, the late industrialization period allowed most infrastructures to adopt Goodyear welting earlier in their development.

Japan’s Shoe-Making Industry Today

Overall, Japan is a relatively new market for luxury footwear.

Demand really began to thrive in the early 2000s. Once an exclusively European tradition, bespoke shoe-making has recently flourished in Japan.

Interestingly, benchmade Goodyear-welted shoes are somewhat more expensive in Japan than in Europe. Meanwhile, bespoke shoes are comparatively affordable and quite competitive.

Nowadays, there are at least 40 bespoke shoemakers in Tokyo and perhaps nearly 100 throughout the entire country.

Until recently, most shoemakers were still obliged to train in Europe. However, a number of dedicated education centers have either been established in the last few years or have garnered critical acclaim.

For instance, Kagami Shoemaking School, Chihiro Yamaguchi’s Guild of Crafts, and the Esperanza Institute of Footwear Design & Technique are dedicated to training Japan’s future shoemakers. In a true role reversal, many of Japan’s master shoemakers who began their careers in England now take on apprentices from Europe!

On one hand, this development is particularly surprising given that Japanese fashion tends to lean towards more casual styles.

After all, Japan is often associated with eclectic styles of Urban streetwear and the demand for allowing sneakers at the office is growing.

However, some argue that much of this gravitation towards casual styles is out of a desire for comfort. Therefore, it’s not surprising that the popularity of bespoke footwear has recently surged in Japan to such an extent.

Why Buy Japanese Shoes?

As shown above, Japan is often revered for its capacity to appropriate Western concepts and incorporate them into its cultural fiber. Furthermore, this is often achieved without compromising its own heritage and integrity.

Similarly, Japanese craftsmanship is almost universally critically acclaimed for meticulous attention to detail. From electronics to engineering, Japan has one of the most outstanding reputations for high-quality products worldwide.

Indeed, both of these characteristics are noticeably reflected in the finesse of their shoes. Influenced by English, Italian, or even French shoe-making, Japan’s cordwainers have certainly developed unique styles that are free from the traditional codes and conventions.

The results are often breathtaking and exquisite designs made with painstaking precision. Seeing Japanese shoe craftsmanship, it’s easy to realize why the once purely domestic market is growing in demand in the West.

Part 5: How to Buy Japanese Shoes: An International Guide

This is the most critical section for the international enthusiast. Many Japanese brands, from exclusive sneaker models to artisanal dress shoes, can be difficult to acquire from abroad. Here is your practical, step-by-step guide.

Option 1: Authorized International Retailers

The simplest method is to purchase from an official international stockist. This eliminates the complexities of language barriers and international shipping.

• Yohei Fukuda: Available at The Armoury.
• Miyagi Kogyo: Available at retailers like Skomaker Dagestad (Norway), Arthur Montreal (Canada), and Okayama Denim.
• Onitsuka Tiger / ASICS: Both have dedicated US and international webstores.

Option 2: Use a Japanese Proxy Buying Service

For Japan-exclusive items or brands that do not ship internationally, a proxy service is your essential tool. A proxy is a Japan-based company that purchases items on your behalf from local retailers and then ships them to you.

How It Works (The 4-Step Process):

1. Find Your Item: Locate the product you want on a Japanese retail website (e.g., a brand’s official JP site, ZOZOTOWN, Rakuten).
2. Submit the Order: Copy the item’s URL and submit it to your chosen proxy service.
3. First Payment: The proxy service will confirm the item’s availability and provide a quote. You pay them for the cost of the item plus their service fee.
4. Second Payment: The proxy purchases the item and has it delivered to their warehouse in Japan. You can then consolidate it with other purchases and pay for international shipping to your home address.

Recommended Proxy Services:

• Sendico: Noted for its generous 180 days of free warehouse storage and free package consolidation, which is excellent for combining multiple orders to save on shipping.
• Japan Rabbit: Offers a very detailed and transparent fee structure, so you know exactly what you’re paying for.
• Neokyo / Buyee: Known for direct integration with major Japanese e-commerce sites like ZOZOTOWN and Rakuten, making the process seamless.

What Next?

Now that you have read about the best Japanese shoe brands and their history, feel free to explore our other related guides:

• Best Italian Shoes To Buy Online
• Top 10 English Shoes To Buy Online
• Best Custom Shoes To Buy Online
• Most Comfortable Dress Shoes For Men
• Bespoke Unit Shoe Homepage