Longwing dress shoes, with their unmistakable wingtip pattern gracefully extending along the shoe’s side, have long been an emblem of refined masculinity in fashion.
Originating from the meticulous craft of traditional British shoemaking, these shoes have transcended borders, finding acclaim and admiration globally. Their ability to infuse an outfit with an aura of sophistication makes them not just shoes but symbols of sartorial elegance.
Whether you’re gracing a grand formal event or seeking that touch of class for your daily attire, a well-crafted pair of longwings stands unmatched. But where did this iconic style originate?
In this guide, we’ll embark on a journey tracing the rich history of the longwing shoe, unveiling its evolution and enduring appeal. And for those eager to invest in this timeless piece, we’ll spotlight the best longwing dress shoes currently sold by Zappos. Follow along to equip yourself with knowledge and style, ensuring every step you take resonates with confidence and panache.
What Are Longwing Dress Shoes?
Distinguished by its unique wingtip perforations, longwings are a standout style of brogue where these perforations travel the full expanse of the shoe, connecting at the heel.
Aptly named, the “longwing” design extends further than the conventional brogue pattern. Unlike classifications such as oxford or derby, which are structural, “longwing” denotes an aesthetic variation—similar to designations like brogue, bit, or bicycle toe.
Predominantly crafted in the derby style which characterized by an open-throat lacing system, longwings can also be incorporated into other shoe styles like loafers and monkstraps.
These versatile shoes are available in a plethora of materials and hues, rendering them compatible with nearly any ensemble. From ready-to-wear to bespoke offerings, a pair of longwings is a worthy addition to any wardrobe.
History Of The Longwing Shoe
The genesis of longwings is entwined with the broader history of brogues.
Hailing from the terrains of Ireland and Scotland, the original brogues were designed for traversing waterlogged terrains. Their distinct perforations were functional, allowing water to be expelled from the shoe after immersion.
Alden Long Wing Bluchers
The 1970s marked a significant era for longwings, with brands like Florsheim and Alden popularizing them, especially in the U.S. While traditionally envisioned as a countryside shoe, certain iterations have been designed with the finesse of a dress oxford, fitting seamlessly with formal wear. Presently, from slim, elegant designs to more robust casual versions, longwings remain a staple across several prestigious shoe brands.
Styling The Longwing
While all longwings fall under the broad umbrella of brogues, there exists a spectrum in terms of formality. While some exude an air of casual elegance, others resonate with more formal attire.
Trust your instincts when coordinating your attire. This might sound elementary, yet this age-old advice holds true. Your innate sense of style will guide you.
Formality
Longwings, akin to full brogues, oscillate on the formality spectrum based on their proportions. Here’s a breakdown:
- Jeans and casual trousers: Opt for bulkier longwings crafted from suede or calfskin.
- Country suits (think flannels and tweeds): Heavier longwings with a durable rubber sole, preferably Dainite, are ideal.
- Standard wool suits: Sleek longwings in refined materials like calfskin or cordovan complement this attire.
Seasonality
Longwings are versatile chameleons, adapting to every season thanks to the diverse palette of colors and materials available:
- Spring: Embrace lighter hues like tan, oatmeal, British tan, caramel, and nutmeg in leather or suede.
- Summer: Opt for off-whites and pristine whites. A white buck longwing can be a stellar addition for those sunny months.
- Autumn: Warm, rich tones like crimson or tobacco are autumn essentials.
- Winter: Classic shades of black, chocolate, and burgundy in materials like leather or cordovan are winter-ready.
While these suggestions provide a foundational guide, fashion is personal. Explore different combinations, and don’t hesitate to share your unique pairings!
The Best Longwings On Zappos
- Formality: Business Professional
- Pricing: $234.95 [Buy Now On Zappos]
Established in 1892 in Chicago, Florsheim has been at the forefront of producing quality men’s shoes for well over a century. The Kenmoor Wingtip is one of their standout offerings, embodying the brand’s rich heritage.
The Kenmoor is crafted from premium burgundy calf leather, a hue that exudes a sense of deep richness and sophistication. As it ages, the shoe develops a unique patina, reflecting the wearer’s individual journey. The meticulous brogue detailing, combined with its sleek design, makes it a statement piece in any collection.
Prioritizing comfort as much as aesthetics, the Kenmoor features a cushioned footbed and a sturdy Goodyear welt construction. This not only ensures durability but also provides added comfort, adapting to the wearer’s foot shape over time. It’s a shoe that looks as good as it feels, even after prolonged wear.
The Kenmoor Wingtip, considering its build quality, the premium material used, and the brand’s esteemed heritage, is a fantastic value proposition. It’s an investment in a piece of footwear history, promising years of wear and timeless style.
- Formality: Business Casual
- Pricing: $285 [Buy Now On Zappos]
Johnston & Murphy stands as a testament to over 165 years of exquisite shoemaking, blending old-world craftsmanship with modern aesthetics, which the Jameson Longwings clearly exhibit.
The Jameson Longwing boasts an upper meticulously crafted from supple full-grain leather, a hallmark of quality. The texture is buttery to the touch, revealing subtle grain variations that speak to its natural origin. The brogue detailing, precise and abundant, demonstrates a keen attention to detail, reminiscent of traditional European craftsmanship.
The Collection Jameson Longwing from Johnston & Murphy serves as a testament to the brand’s undying commitment to quality and style. For those seeking a blend of tradition and contemporary design, this shoe stands as a clear front-runner.
- Formality: Business Casual
- Pricing: $180 [Buy Now On Zappos]
Cole Haan, a brand steeped in a legacy that spans nearly a century, has consistently catered to the discerning tastes of fashion-forward gentlemen. The Davidson Grand Longwing is a shining example of this dedication.
Constructed with a full-grain leather upper, this shoe exudes sophistication at first glance. The chestnut shade, deep and rich, exhibits a warmth that can instantly elevate any ensemble, be it a tailored navy suit or well-fitted jeans. The brogue detailing, extending the length of the shoe, is executed expertly, paying homage to the traditional longwing style.
But what truly distinguishes this shoe is its harmonious blend of aesthetics with comfort. Inside, the Oxford is equipped with Cole Haan’s innovative comfort technology, ensuring that each step feels as good as the shoe looks.
Finally, the versatility in color coordination cannot be overstated. The chestnut hue is adaptable, pairing seamlessly with a myriad of outfits, making it an essential addition to a contemporary wardrobe.
- Formality: Casual
- Pricing: From $162 [Buy Now On Zappos]
While we’ve previously delved into the charms of Cole Haan’s Davidson Grand Longwing Oxford, the brand’s commitment to innovation and style presents us with another noteworthy entrant: the Cole Haan OriginalGrand Neoprene Longwing.
These are not your grandfather’s longwings. The OriginalGrand Neoprene collection breathes new life into the classic shoe silhouette. At its core, the longwing design remains, with the characteristic broguing extending from toe to heel. However, this is where tradition takes a backseat and modern innovation takes the wheel.
The inclusion of neoprene as a material is an audacious choice, deviating from the classic leather or suede that we’ve come to expect. This deviation is what sets the OriginalGrand Neoprene Longwing apart, offering a unique texture contrast that’s both visually appealing and functionally beneficial. Neoprene provides added flexibility and a snug fit, enhancing comfort and allowing the shoe to move with the natural rhythm of the foot.
Aesthetically, the shoe strikes a balance between old-world charm and contemporary flair. While it retains the sophisticated brogue detailing symbolic of longwings, the modern twist in its material selection and camouflage theme ensures that it remains relevant in today’s fashion scene. They are ideal for the modern man looking to make a statement, embodying a perfect blend of respect for the past and excitement for the future.
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