Crown Northampton Suede Desert Boots

Before diving into the review, let’s take a moment to explore what makes suede so special.

Leather’s renowned durability comes from an interlocking mesh of fibers, which are finest at the top grain and gradually become larger and less rigid toward the back.

Typically, when crafting belts or shoes, the bottom layer of these larger fibers is split from the top grain, leaving behind suede as a byproduct. Lower-quality suede, derived this way, lacks strength and can even be torn by hand.

CF Stead Janus Calf Suede (TheTanneryRow.com)

However, CF Stead takes a completely different approach. Known for their craftsmanship, they produce ‘whole grain’ suede by carefully shaving down the top layer of leather rather than splitting it.

This process retains many of the finer, tightly interwoven fibers that give the material strength. Additionally, CF Stead shrinks their hides during production, further compacting the fibers to create suede that is more durable, flexible, and breathable than standard leather shoes.

The result? A suede that is both luxurious and hard-wearing, standing head and shoulders above lesser-quality suedes. While it will still require regular upkeep—like all suede—this material won’t easily fray or unravel, making it a worthy choice for premium footwear.

Style & Appearance

The Woodford boots are completely unlined, with their structure relying on a thick, secure heel counter cover and a touch of “moss” resin inside the toe box. This moss—not the green kind—adds strength to the fibers, maintaining the boot’s silhouette while keeping the suede breathable and lightweight.

The upper is attached to the natural crepe sole via stitch-down construction, which has several benefits over traditional cork welting. It provides a flatter, more comfortable footbed, enhances flexibility, and makes resoling easier. The crepe sole itself feels denser than most, suggesting improved durability and less likelihood of crumbling over time.

Finished with a brown edge that matches the upper, the crepe sole’s natural ecru base peeks through in places, adding to the boot’s character. While this painted edge may show wear over time, it contributes to the boots’ casual charm—perfectionists might consider matching dye to maintain the finish. These thoughtful details highlight Crown Northampton’s focus on both craftsmanship and practicality.

Fit & Comfort

Crown Northampton describes the Woodford boots as a 1950s two-eyelet style, and their low profile was a pleasant surprise. The boots barely cover the ankle, and the eyelets pull the suede snugly around the bridge of the foot, providing a sneaker-like feel.

Thanks to the unlined construction, they’re incredibly breathable, making them a contender to replace my trusty 10-year-old Belgian loafers.

Inside, the footbed features a small veg-tanned leather cushion under the heel, which provides subtle comfort. While the squared edge where the cushion meets the footbed was noticeable at first glance, I didn’t feel it while wearing the boots.

Over time, as the leather compresses, I expect it to smooth out completely for an even more seamless experience.

Closing Thoughts

Crown Northampton’s Woodford boots deliver top-tier materials, over a century of heritage, and timeless design.

While leaning towards a casual aesthetic, they’re a definite upgrade from sneakers, offering a blend of style and comfort that rivals even sandals. These boots effortlessly balance craftsmanship with wearability, making them a standout addition to any wardrobe.

Further Reading

Once you’ve finished reading this review, feel free to peruse our wide range of shoe content such as the following resources:

• Crown Northampton Review: Harlestone Derbies in Horween Buffalo
• Best English Shoemakers & Their History
• What’s The Difference Between Desert Boots And Chukkas?
• Top 10 Most Comfortable Dress Shoes For Men
• All Of Our Shoe Reviews